Hotpoint aquarius 1000 strange problem

[max.n.saskia]

Hi everyone,

I have a Hotpoint aquarius 1000 and when I turn it on it fills with water and appears to go through the programme somewhat faster than it should,
but the drum never turns. The timer stops at rinse part too and stays there. I have checked the brushes in the motor and they seem fine.
Its a quite new machine too aqquired from my sister when she moved into her new house and bought new matching appliances. This machine is one the old home owners left in the house. So I have no garuantee.
Any Ideas on what other fault finding checks I could do would be greatly appreciated.
I am quite handy and have tools and multimeter, im just not sure what to check.

 

[keithwasherman]

the aquarius name was used on many different models. a bit like ford escort. you'll stand a better chance of good advice if you post the model number. e.g. wm62 or 9??? or wma??

 

[fido]

Just to double check you can put your meter leads between the 2 brush terminals and read the resistance which should be about 2 or 3 ohms. If this is correct there may be another fault in the motor. There is a device called a thermal overload cutout (TOC) inside the motor, connected in series with one of the brushes. You can check this with your meter by putting one lead on a brush terminal, unplugging the motor connector block and touching the other meter probe on each motor plug pin in turn. Repeat this with the other brush and you should be able to identify which plug pins go to the brushes. If one brush does not show a short circuit with respect to any of the pins you know the TOC has failed.

 

[max.n.saskia]

Thanks for the the input guys.

Keithwasherman, I didnt realise that but the model is wm62.

fido, I will try that tonight when I get home and post the results.

Many thanks.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Ok i've tried the suggestions so far,
Firstly I realised the cheap meter I bought years ago only measures ac/dc volts and continuity (which is all I used it for).
I set the meter to continuity and measured between the brushes, result was the same as touching the meter probes together. Not sure if this means no resistance ?.
Then I disconnected the motor connection plug and did the checks from the brushes to the pins in the motor connector block (the bit on the motor not the plug with the wires connected) What I found was that I had a circuit on 1 pin only, on both brushes and it was the same pin. The pin if this makes any sense was the second one down from the top. Good/bad ?

I hope this all makes sense, btw im going to buy a proper multimeter tomorrow.


Thanks again guys.

Many thanks again .

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Any ideas guys, Im running out of underpants.

________________________
moderator

please note 10a & 1a which are here

 

[keithwasherman]

if i'm following fidos advice as he intended then i think you should disconnect both brushes and take readings from the brush wires to the block. then you should get continuity from two pins each to a different brush. if you are getting it to only one individually tested then it's likely that the t.o.c. is open circuit.
go to your local dump site and you may find another motor that you could try.

 

[max.n.saskia]

Sorry if i sound thick but could you explain this in english please ?.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

sorry that was astupid thing to say.

I will try what you said and post results


Moderator, what did I not take note of in 1a and 10a ?.

 

[fido]

Sorry, yes Keith is right. I should have said the meter probe on the second test should go to the spade terminal of the brush wire with the spade disconnected from the brush, otherwise you are getting a connection via the other brush.

 

[max.n.saskia]

Sorry for the late reply here I been busy.
I tested as suggested from the brush wire (disconnected) to each spade in the block, I get continuity from one spade only on each brush. Does this mean the toc is open cicuit ? if it does where is it in the motor and can i get a new one ?.

Thanks guys.

 

[fido]

Not sure what you mean. If you mean that one brush lead shows continuity with one of the plug pins and the other one does not show continuity with any pins then yes, the TOC has failed. I don't think the TOC is available as a new part but I normally take one from a motor that's been scrapped for some other fault. If there is a local shop that sells washing machine spares they may be able to find you a TOC or a scrap motor.

 

[max.n.saskia]

Sorry, what I meant was, I tested from each brush wire to each spade in the block and got continuity from only one spade in the block from the brush wires.

 

[max.n.saskia]

Should I be getting continuity from two pins in the motor block to each brush wire ? or just one brush wire Im a bit confused here

 

[keithwasherman]

lets start from the beginning.
1. disconnect the wiring harness from the motor.
2. the block on the motor will have seven spade terminals in it.
3. disconnect both of the spade terminals from each of the brush holders and leave them loose.
4. insert one of your probes into one of the brush wire terminals. make sure that it doesn't touch the motor case.
5. using the other probe with your meter on "continuity", touch each of the spades in the motor block in turn.
6. with both brushes disconnected you should only get a reading on ONE of the pins.
7. repeat the process afetr changing your probe to the other brush wire terminal.
8. again touch each of the spades in the block and you should get a reading on one of the other pins but not the one which read first.
9.if two different pins give a reading (one for each brush terminal) then your motor t.o.c. (overload protector) is o.k.
10. if only one pin reads then the t.o.c. is open and should be replaced.

t.o.c. s are available as a spare part but to be honest you'd be far better off trying to get a decent second hand motor. it would be much easier.
besides if you are getting a reading on two pins then you have a fault elsewhere in your machine and the easiest way to check it out is to plug in a motor that's known to be good.
as i always say seeing it for ones self is always the best option because i'm sure that people like me and fido would suss it in about couple of minutes. i.e. we'd simultaneously be looking at the harness, blown tracks on the timer etc etc.

like i said before if you seek out your local dumpit site i'd bet there'll be a couple of hotpoints sitting there with decent motors on. if it's got seven pins ond the tacho magnet is the same then it will fit no probs.
good luck

 

[max.n.saskia]

Keithwasherman, that confirms I was doing the test correctly. I am getting a circuit from two different pins in the block one to one brush wire and the other to the other brush wire. Seems the t.o.c is fine.
I removed the cicuit board and inspected the tracks and components, these also look fine, no burnt tracks or burnt looking components.
Any more Ideas ? Should I test the pressure switch or the door interlock ?
I have noticed in the past that I have had to slam door to get machine to work. But I think the machine didnt come on at all then as opposed to the problem I am now having.

Many thanks.

 

[max.n.saskia]

I have just removed and tested the door interlock, I get no continuity from any pair of the terminals in either switch position. Is this likely to cause my washer's symptoms ?.

 

[max.n.saskia]

After dismantling the door interlock by drilling the rivets then inspecting the various pieces I came to no particular conlusion but it was interesting.
Then after looking through numerous other threads on this site I happened accross this one.

//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=31167&highlight=A

I tried bridging the live and switched live and low and behold problem solved

Now Im off to get a new interlock, been quoted £19.99 at local dealer, seems a bit steep when I seen them on ebay for £4.99 + delivery
gonna shop around abit.

I will update you when I get new part.

Once again many thanks.