Hotpoint First Edition 1200 WM 35 brushes problem

[LesleyB]

Hi

My Hotpoint stopped washing properly. The program selector stuck mid program. The water drained ok and I have got the clothes out. The belt is ok but the brush holders are sooted up and there is carbon dust on the wires from the front panel so it looks like carbon dust has been blown about.

I had a problem with it before in that the latch wouldn't lock on for a wash, but it seemed to recover from that after I'd called in a repair man who said that it was the selector mechanism (without even so much as taking the lid off) and that I was better off buying a new washing machine.

I reckon it is the brushes. There is soot around possibly where it shouldn't be, but I am not sure how to get the old brushes out.

I've also read the thread

//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=36344&highlight=hot+point+wm35+brushes+washing+machine

and I am wondering if it is possible to remove and replace the brushes without disturbing the motor. Or is it only possible by removing the motor?

Regards and thanks in advance.

Lesley

++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Plot thickens ....

I just took the electrical tags off the brushes and they are burnt through at the ends, split and charred.

I have yet to release the brushes but what else could this be an indication of? Is a replacement motor indicated or can I replace those end tags on the blue and white wires going to the brushes?

Regards

Lesley

 

[fido]

The brush holders are held in by a clip formed in the plastic which needs to be squeezed toward the main body of the holder before the holder can be pulled out. You do this using a screwdriver slid in the slot in the motor casing next to the clip. The insulating sleeves on the spade connectors often go brittle and break up so this does not mean your motor has failed. You can wrap a bit of duct tape round the spades or just make sure they are not too close to the motor casing. Don't use normal insulation tape as it will melt.

 

[LesleyB]

Posted the wrong model number it's a WM53P and the brushes have white holders and laminated brushes in them - which need replacing.

 

[breezer]

I suggest you read this post and the instructions there in.

one q. You said your m/c stopped, what was the dial showing when it stops? and what happens if you put it onto rinse (leave m/c empty as result will be better)

 

[LesleyB]

Thanks for the links to the pics breezer, very useful.

The one I have is a WM53P Serial No 51113281. By reading around, apparently the serial number says something about the date of manufacture. Those details are off the back of the door.

I've managed to slip one brush out. Now I don't know much about laminated brushes but the thread I read about a WM52, there seemed to be some sort of query over whether they were any good. Anyhow, the connectors to the brushes are definitely burnt, so something funny has been going on.

I will check the filter out later on.

The initial problem showed with the door latch not locking. This then resolved itself, but that was a few months back. Have no clue if it was related. During the last week, I put a load in and came back to it some hours later to find the dial had stopped halfway round. There's no LED display giving an error code on this model. I nudged the dial and everything seemed to start up again but it didn't spin although it did drain water away.

I tried spinning it again and it was no go.

I am hoping to try and replace the brushes and the electrical connectors but still use the existing motor. The moot question is why are the connectors burnt?

The brush I have got out was sticky, lots of carbon around and the lamination was in two pieces. Should they be stuck together?

Still yet to successfully unclip remaining brush and am hoping it's not stuck in the motor.

Parts list has increased because I've noticed a split in the door seal so in the minimum I need a set of brushes and a door seal. I will check the state of filter in case I need repairs there but I think water pump is ok. The water drains out ok.

I did look at replacement motors and there seems to be a replacement motor available for this series but I would prefer the cheaper route if I can manage it. I am just worried that because the terminals have burnt there might be something more wrong with the motor.

The motor situation is a little unclear because I have a Type 904/1158/09 800/1500 RPM one fitted to a machine that delivers 1200rpm. There seems to have been a rekitting of the motor at some stage on some models so any advice on this would be useful. Do I need the same brushes for the new motor? Does a new motor come with a new brush set or will I have to buy those separately?

Wish there was a kit available like on the WMA models.

Regards

Lesley

 

[breezer]

its a few years since i worked for hp, the motor lable colour used to denote spin speed.

blue 800

red 1000

yellow 1200

green i dont remember

can you post a pic of the brushes you have?

its quite common to get carbon around the brush hole (if you see what i mean)

i would change both brushes first then take it from there

 

[fido]

Thanks for the vote of confidence.

 

[LesleyB]

Rightio

Here's a pic of the brush that's come out. Yes there are two pieces of carbon that's because it was in two pieces inside the brush holder.




and this is a top view of the brush holder itself.



with this being the business end on view



Please note that is carbon on the end not burnt. No sign of burning there.

This is one of the terminals off the motor going to the brushes



and the other terminal is much the same.

Here's one of the motor label



Now, I have no clue why the terminals should be charred as they are but they do need replacing. If I don't mess that up then I should be able to get them to plug into the brush terminals.

I've still to get the right hand brush out, so what you see as far as brush components are concerned is a completely apart single brush. Before I took it apart, the brush was in two pieces in the brush holder but it looks like it's meant to be like that, unless a brush can split along it's long side all the way through.

So I think these are the laminated brushes.

Any comments gratefully appreciated.

Regards

L.

 

[LesleyB]

Thanks for the vote of confidence.

Now now fido

I managed to get one of the brushes out, am still hoping the right one will come out if I can find (a) a shorter screwdriver or (b) my rightangled screwdriver - oddest looking but strangely useful piece of equipment that. Just praying I don't have to pull the motor out to get to it because I hate retensioning those belts.

Given both terminals are fairly well charred and I have the kit for it, it won't be hard to replace those two connectors. I'd rather do that than lash something well dodgy back together. Crap connections cause arcing mate.
While it's apart I might as well sort it.

 

[breezer]

i would say that the termianals are as bad as they are because the brushes have worn too much and starting to overheat, i would just fit new brushes, the less joints you have the less to go wrong.

dont know if you notced /aware, but motor is only held on by one bolt, rarely did i need to undo it to change brushes, but i have done so

Unplu m/c
unplug motor (plug ony fits one way up)
undo bolt (drop washer into bottom of cabinet (swear and curse that you did that)
Take motor off, put into assitants hands* (i used to put it somewhere else)
change both brushes remount motor (get assitant to hold it while you get washer back)
hand tighten nut bolt and washer
put belt onto pulley then onto motor shaft
lever motor out to tention
tighten nut bolt and washer up really tight
put motor plug back

* you can not put motor onto table as pecker cable on motor will not reach.
the pecker cable is the one that looks like a pushbike brake cable

 

[LesleyB]

Thanks for all the help, gentlemen.

I've fitted the new brushes I got from ebay for about £6.50 including
postage and am running it through a cycle to see if it works.

Now, ok, I'm probably being a bit blonde here, but I read up on this site
about putting tags at 90 degrees to get the brushes to move easily and
thought that meant the terminal tags.

If anyone else is stuck on apparently stuck brushes when the brushes
are new, take a look further along the brush holder, there's a small
channel where you can see some copper. There's a small piece with a
dimple on it and it is *that* tag that needs to be bent at 90 degrees not
the copper terminal tag where the connectors go. The dimple obviously
holds the brush in so that the carbon doesn't get damaged in transit.


Further more, you have to do this with the brush in situ on the motor for
the left hand brush otherwise you can't get past the lump of concrete
nearby. It's not hard to do though, I managed with a slim electrical
screwdriver.

HTH anyone else out there. (And just to recap this is for a WM53P Hotpoint First Edition 1200. ).

Regards and thanks for your help

L.

p.s. If it all works, £6.50 beats that joker that came round and told me
that it'd cost £120 to repair and I'd be better of buying a new one or a
secondhand one - preferably from him no doubt.

 

[breezer]

i hate to say this, but if you get genuine hp brushes, there is a little drawing on the bag that says to release the tag before use