How do I make a curved chimney?

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Hello, in our ancient house there is a 110mm wide chimney with a range cooker underneath it.

Currently there is a (very poorly done - whats a spirit level? lol) flat plasterboard cap to the chimney (with rectangular hole for the extractor).

We are wanting to make it into a curved chimney bottom, I have about 12" between the bottom of the arch to the top in space to play with. (not a lot I know).

I was thinking of putting a batten along the side & then pushing up a thin bit of plywood to make the arch then plaster it & paint it white.

I'm wanting to add a few spot lights & a small extractor fan but I dont see them being a problem, its how to make the arch?

Any suggestions?

Cheers,
Matty
 
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Yep, same as Col',, a pic or diagram would help Matt, rather than trying to visualise the project.

Roughcaster.
 
ROFLMAO...... I should know better...

OK I'll take a photo of the existing chimney area and
photoshop it too. :D


Or... I will as soon as I can get my 13yr old son to show me how to draw an arc in photoshop :D :D
 
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Here is a pic of the existing mess.

View media item 13476
About 3" above the top of the extractor there is a beam across from each side of the chimney so I'll treat that as being as high as I can go (I'm not messing with that sucker :D )

I'll post a pic of how I want it once I can get my son to help me lol

But til then if you can imagine the (what would be a flat line if the previous owners had discovered spirit levels) top to be curved, looking something like you'd find in an old house with an aga under it :D
 
Here is a pic that I have done, all it has is a curve on lol.

View media item 13486
Although the red line is a bit thick :D I want to cut away the bits where the extractor are & curve it like that, with a plastered finish.
Although a sheet of brushed stainless steel may be easier to put up I'm sure it will cost me more.

All tiles will be removed (Yayyy says the mrs :D )
 
hmmm. plywood no good for plastering mattylad, use plasterboard!

if you wet one side of the board and lean it up a wall it will curve/bend, keep playing like this until it kinds fits the space, OR put cuts in the back every inch or so and snap them leaving the ivory side in tact.

just my thoughts guys, not sure best way to fit it though.
 
Will you be able to cut the existing to roughly that shape, or will we have a void to fill?
 
I'll be removing what I can, there is just void & battens behind what you can see until you get about 8" up from the bottom of the extractor, where there is what I now see is a steel lintel going across.
 

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