How to actually do a floor right

[ducati01]

I am about to knock down 5 internal breez brick walls and re-build using
wood ok know what i am doing there..however.. the concrete floor is cracked and will be when i move the walls and the rest of the floor area has previously had a self leveling compound on it and its rubbish(cracked , unevan and breaks off in your hand)
I have been told to take up the screed to expose the plastic DPM then lay
2x2 battons down and insulate cover with 22m tongue and groove chipboard then put my flooring cover down
'A Floating Floor' is this a good option or what should i do
The battons will only be laid not nailed so DPM will be in tacted

any advice
cheers
Ducati

Ps anyone not busy next wek fancy knocking down walls as anger management let me know lol

 

[kevnurse]

Is this for a house or a workshop?

I don't think the advice you have received would be acceptable to the building control office if it is for a dwelling.

 

[ducati01]

it is for a bunglelow floor

would you recommend i take up the old screed and lay a new one
help

 

[kevnurse]

When you lay the battens down onto the DPM without fixing them into position they are most probably not going to be level in both directions. Although the flooring above the battens will be fixed to them and will push them down into position, I anticipate slight vertical movement of the floor and the battens as people walk over it. I believe that it is for this reason that self levelling screed is used on solid floors.

I'm not a builder.

 

[Symptoms]

ducati - if your concrete floor is truly knackered (many that are like this CAN be repaired with the appropriate products) then the best plan is to lift it and pour another one in concrete (I'd replace the membrane also). Once you've got a decent sub-floor your choices for floor finishes become simple (er). Forget all that nonsense you've been told about battens directly on the old DPM then skinned with chipboard - NEVER EVER use chipboard in this situation, or any for that matter (apart from boarding the loft for STORAGE) ... clearly, the person who suggested that route doesn't know what they're talking about.

The only 'problem' with installing a new concrete floor is the 'drying time' until it's safe to lay the floor covering so if you can't afford to wait consider repair with some of the epoxy products designed for this purpose.

Try to post some pics of your floor for clearer advice.

 

[ducati01]

I managed to get a good builder who has sized up the floor and ensured the area is now flat and stable and he is screeding and ensurinng this is level but he is doing this after he has put up the walls i need and i must admit what a great site it actually worked..
Now to investigate a log fir and oak flooring

thanks for the help a push in the right direction is better than a hole in my pocket

thanks