HW works ok but no CH
- Thread starter Rod1956
- Start date
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Ah well that's pretty clear.
It does look like the valve or at least part of it will need to be replaced.
It looks fairly old in the photograph. Is there a make and model number still visible on it?
It does look like the valve or at least part of it will need to be replaced.
It looks fairly old in the photograph. Is there a make and model number still visible on it?
You're right it looks pretty old.
It appears as though someone in the past has tried to get the cover off without removing the retaining screw - the cover looks bent.
This is probably because the cover retaining screw seems to be at the bottom of the valve - facing the floor. you can see the cover doesn't fit properly in the picture
I'll have another look to see if there's any kind of label with a make/model
It appears as though someone in the past has tried to get the cover off without removing the retaining screw - the cover looks bent.
This is probably because the cover retaining screw seems to be at the bottom of the valve - facing the floor. you can see the cover doesn't fit properly in the picture
I'll have another look to see if there's any kind of label with a make/model
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Not as old as I thought.
Here's the whole unit just to check it looks the same
http://www.uk-plumbing.com/honeywell-2-port-zone-valve-v4043h-1056-22mm-p-1410.html
and the replacement power head which saves a few quid.
http://www.uk-plumbing.com/honeywell-40003916001-replacement-powerhead-for-v4043h-p-41209.html
Take off the top cover, loosen off the 2 screws inside and the whole actutor should seperate away from the base with a bit of gentle prising.
Here's the whole unit just to check it looks the same
http://www.uk-plumbing.com/honeywell-2-port-zone-valve-v4043h-1056-22mm-p-1410.html
and the replacement power head which saves a few quid.
http://www.uk-plumbing.com/honeywell-40003916001-replacement-powerhead-for-v4043h-p-41209.html
Take off the top cover, loosen off the 2 screws inside and the whole actutor should seperate away from the base with a bit of gentle prising.
Yes these look the same - although the new ones seem to have a stud or screw on the top of the cover - the opposite end to the cable.
Is it a good idea to replace just the power head - or is it possible that the valve itself could be jammed ?
Is it a good idea to replace just the power head - or is it possible that the valve itself could be jammed ?
I was just thinking that myself. It may be a good idea to buy the whole thing and keep your options open just in case. The difference in price isn't worth the risk.
If the new head seems to fit OK and operates smoothly without sticking and without letting hot water pass through when only DHW is required, all's well. If not you can drain the system and replace the valve base too.
If the new head seems to fit OK and operates smoothly without sticking and without letting hot water pass through when only DHW is required, all's well. If not you can drain the system and replace the valve base too.
Good idea -
interesting you mention letting hot water through - ever since we've lived here, whenever the hot water is on most radiatiors in the house heat up.
British Gas said there was nothing they could do about it, it was caused by bad pipe work.
A mate who used to be a plumber but who is currently on holiday for a month has always said that's rubbish. We just turn the rads off in summer.
I'll try and sort out the valve tomorrow and post an update asap
interesting you mention letting hot water through - ever since we've lived here, whenever the hot water is on most radiatiors in the house heat up.
British Gas said there was nothing they could do about it, it was caused by bad pipe work.
A mate who used to be a plumber but who is currently on holiday for a month has always said that's rubbish. We just turn the rads off in summer.
I'll try and sort out the valve tomorrow and post an update asap
Maybe this valve has been dodgy for some time then. If it tends to stick ( half open? ) it would really be better to get rid of it.
Valve replaced - heating now fully working.
Had to dismantle the airing cupboard before I could get a spanner to the valve - who designs systems like this ??
Jack - thanks so much for all your help on this I really really appreciate it.
Don't know if you can throw any light on this - I live in a bungalow with a loft conversion. Only one radiator upstairs. It hasn't worked properly in 4 years. Today when I refilled system and switched on, I bled the upstairs radiator and it became hot all over. Half an hour later it was cold - the feed pipe to the radiator thermostat is hot. The bottom of the rad is hot.
This suggests there's air in the rad. But when I bled it again no air at all. I removed the bleed valve - nothing, no air and no water. I removed the whole bleed end of the rad - nothing no water spilling out and no air - nothing.
Half an hour before, the whole rad was boiling hot. All other rads in the house working fine.
Do you have any ideas ?
Thanks again for all you help getting the system working. Rod
Had to dismantle the airing cupboard before I could get a spanner to the valve - who designs systems like this ??
Jack - thanks so much for all your help on this I really really appreciate it.
Don't know if you can throw any light on this - I live in a bungalow with a loft conversion. Only one radiator upstairs. It hasn't worked properly in 4 years. Today when I refilled system and switched on, I bled the upstairs radiator and it became hot all over. Half an hour later it was cold - the feed pipe to the radiator thermostat is hot. The bottom of the rad is hot.
This suggests there's air in the rad. But when I bled it again no air at all. I removed the bleed valve - nothing, no air and no water. I removed the whole bleed end of the rad - nothing no water spilling out and no air - nothing.
Half an hour before, the whole rad was boiling hot. All other rads in the house working fine.
Do you have any ideas ?
Thanks again for all you help getting the system working. Rod
Congratulations on getting it working again.
The other problem does sound like there's air getting into the system.
Depending on the position of the pump in relation to the feed and expansion pipes, it is possible to get negative pressure in the upstairs radiators, especially where a loft conversion has made it impossible to get a good head of water between the F & E tank and the radiators.
While the CH system is running if you try to bleed an upstairs rad it will likely suck in air rather than bleeding it out, so shut down first and then try to get the air out.
If you can roughly sketch the layout of boiler, pump, F&E tank etc, I'm sure someone here will offer advice.
Essentially the pump should be pumping in the direction away from the Tees connecting the F&E pipes so the rest of the system is at a higher pressure than those junctions.
The other problem does sound like there's air getting into the system.
Depending on the position of the pump in relation to the feed and expansion pipes, it is possible to get negative pressure in the upstairs radiators, especially where a loft conversion has made it impossible to get a good head of water between the F & E tank and the radiators.
While the CH system is running if you try to bleed an upstairs rad it will likely suck in air rather than bleeding it out, so shut down first and then try to get the air out.
If you can roughly sketch the layout of boiler, pump, F&E tank etc, I'm sure someone here will offer advice.
Essentially the pump should be pumping in the direction away from the Tees connecting the F&E pipes so the rest of the system is at a higher pressure than those junctions.
Ok thanks - really just glad to get heating back on in time for the storms and gales we've got this weekend.
I'll get more info on my system and start a new thread at some time
Realy grateful for all your help with the valve.
I'll get more info on my system and start a new thread at some time
Realy grateful for all your help with the valve.
It's quite enjoyable telling other people what to do rather than having to do it all yourself.
Ok thanks - really just glad to get heating back on in time for the storms and gales we've got this weekend.
Thee may be storms and gales but yesterday evening it was 16° C at 2200 hrs!
Its cooler today though at 12 ° C
Tony
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