Installing insulated plasterboard

[naffoff]

Hello,

I'm going to be installing Kingspan K17 on top of a tanking membrane (5mm gap - masonry side, above ground). I'll be securing it with both dot and dab, and mechanical fixings. Should probably mention that I've not done this before!

I understand that plasterboard usually stops approx. 2cm above the floor - is this the case with insulated plasterboard, too? If a gap is left, am I likely to have interstitial condensation problems?

Installation instructions aren't specific on this aspect.

Thanks.

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

Once you puncture the tanking membrane its integrity will be lost. Use mechanical fixings at your peril

 

[diy001]

Freddy, hows them classes going?

 

[naffoff]

Once you puncture the tanking membrane its integrity will be lost. Use mechanical fixings at your peril

The plugs that secure the membrane to the wall are designed to accept mechanical fixings.

The alternative (from the vendor) is to use a wall plug filled with mastic, and fix to this.

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

Once you puncture the tanking membrane its integrity will be lost. Use mechanical fixings at your peril

The plugs that secure the membrane to the wall are designed to accept mechanical fixings.

The alternative (from the vendor) is to use a wall plug filled with mastic, and fix to this.

Is this a rigid raised bubble membrane like Newton or similar? If so you shouldn't need additional fixings other than the dabs.

 

[naffoff]

Is this a rigid raised bubble membrane like Newton or similar? If so you shouldn't need additional fixings other than the dabs.

That's the stuff! Newlath 2000, or whatever it's called now.

Mechanical fixings are to stop it delaminating (in a fire, or from the weight of the board). I think, but not sure, that building regs might stipulate them, too.

The uninsulated walls will be dabbed only.

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

If Building Regs required mech fixings, that would somewhat defeat the object of using dabs don't you think?

 

[HH1]

Would "pinkgrip dry fix" (or similar, soudal fix n foam?) work in this application.
Of indeed, normal "pinkgrip"
Not familiar with the K7 board so I'm not entirely sure.
Have recently been using the soudal stuff for plasterboard and whole host of other materials and think its pretty good.

 

[naffoff]

Would "pinkgrip dry fix" (or similar, soudal fix n foam?) work in this application.
Of indeed, normal "pinkgrip"
Not familiar with the K7 board so I'm not entirely sure.
Have recently been using the soudal stuff for plasterboard and whole host of other materials and think its pretty good.

I'll have a look at the Soudal stuff, thanks.


Freddy: You'd think. But could be to do with fire/delamination. Either way, Kingspan installation docs and Newton's advice is to use both (or indeed just mech).

I'm mainly concerned about whether or it should directly abut the floor - would a gap not break the vapour control barrier?