Is a coupler typically used on a back/side fill on a gully?

[tpb1975]

Had to replace a damaged gully at the weekend. I was lifting flags to put in a new patio and found a broken salt glazed pipe attached to the gully.

Good news is it will allow me to put a couple of drive channels either side of it and tap into the side fills. Looks like the 110mm pipe goes into the side fill connector, no rubber seals in the sidefill and it's too large to use the builtin connector on the 110mm pipe. It's not water tight, if I dump a couple of watering cans in at the same time I might get one or two drips out. So very little but if I get a bit of a blockage that raises the water level in the gully, it's going to be continually dripping out.

Anyway, long story short. How do people typically handle these backfill/sidefills? I was thinking about using a FlexSeal SC115 or SC120. I've got about 3 sidefills I want to add drive way channels too.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

The bosses on a gulley are 110mm spigots, so will accept the plain end of a 110mm pipe. Solvent weld the join to make it watertight. If you could lower the body of the gulley, 90° bends can be used to connect the bottom outlets on the channel drain to the bosses on the gulley pot. Then use a riser to bring the frame and grating up to finished floor level.

 

[tpb1975]

Thanks for the response. I've not tried a solvent weld before, just looks like glue and could risk cracking. I don't know if it makes a "weld" better than super glue. I've already got a flexseal sc120 which I've put an end of pipe in with a connector. Seems to be water tight but not the way the pros do it.

Got a new problem with the joints on the exiting salt glazed pipes. Put it in a new thread.

Thanks again for the response, pretty much what the advice was from Travis Perkins and MKM.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Solvent weld actually chemically melts the plastic, and fuses the joint together. Usually stronger the the plastic itself when cured, (You'll never part the joint again if done properly!), so IMO far superior to superglue in this application. Flexseal usually reserved for repairs and joining different materials, if working with plastic, all relevant fittings required are usually available in plastic. (Cheaper too. )

 

[tpb1975]

Going to try the solvent weld on a couple of Osma driveway channels. They provide end caps but there are no gaskets or clips. I guess the idea is they're retained by the concrete base the channel is put in.

Funny how I'm worried about a few drips. I've got one wall with just a flower bed next to it. Plus it's clay after just 10cm down, so all the back fill around the house is a massive sump throughout winter anyway (as I found out when putting in the flower bed and footing for an extension).

 

[tpb1975]

OK Osma solvent weld isn't suitable for their driveway gully as it's made of polypropylene. Plus they don't use rubber/silicone gaskets to seal the end caps. Guess I'm going to have to concrete them in place and try and find an adhesive.

 

[r896neo]

The channels should fall away from the end the caps towards the outfall so it doesnt need to be water tight really.

If your really concerned then a bit of polysulphide mastic would do the trick