is it ok to mount cooker hood on wooden plank

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hi the following the current look of my cooker area.

im planning to install new chimney hood http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.jsp?action=detail&fh_secondid=10617566[url][/url]

as you can see in the photo that there is a horizontal wooden plank where two of the cabinets mounted.

how can i mount new chimney hood here in this situatuion.

Can i drill another horizontal wooden plank just below the current extractor fan and mount the new chimney hood on those wooden plank?

i will be grateful for your support.
 
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Is the batten being used to hang the wall cabinets?
If you can be sure that the fixing of the cabinets will not be compromised, I would remove it.
 
wall cabinets are drilled on that wooden plank; there is another small shelf on next to cabinet on right which is also drilled mounted on that wooden plank.
 
This is a guess.

Is the wall weak plasterboard, and has the wooden board been fixed to it to spread the load of the cabinets and hood?

has the wall got studs in it, and is the wooden board screwed to the studs?
 
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The wall is solid concrete. i dont no why but the people who fixed it up there didnt fixed cabinet directly on the concrete wall; rather used the wooden plank.

some years back, the electrician who fixed that current extractor fan(black) told me that the concrete wall over there is very hard to drill to. He told me that there is a chimney hole which runs to the roof. Thats why he could not drill hole for duct pipe exactly above the cooker and did it on side nearer to cabinet on right.
 
What type of hood are going to purchase?
They normally only have fixing points at the top and they then rest in position.
But if you can not remove the timber, you will need to, somehow bring the wall out, so it sits flush.
Are the tiles staying?
 
That's something like I was going to suggest, you could make a tidier job of it if you where re-tiling.
But I was going to suggest Plasterbording it out, the putting in a splash back behind the hob, to improve the the look.
So if there is a lip formed by the board, the splash back can but up to this and make it a neater finish.
 
if you want.

We call them battens not planks

use ply not mdf or plasterboard both of which are very weak

if it was me I would paint the wall, the battens and the ply matt white before final fix or it will look horrible.

btw if the concrete wall is hard to drill, use a good brand of masonry bit and a big heavy hammer drill (if it's still difficult, try to get someone who has an SDS+ professional drill). If the hole is too big or ragged, make sure first that it is wide enough and deep enough for your plasplug and screw; wash out all the dust, fill the hole with "NoMoreNails" or similar, push the plasplug into place while it is soft and smooth off the excess. Leave it overnight to harden, and the plug will have a very firm seating that will not turn, come loose, or fall out. This method is very good on difficult surfaces. It is essential to go at least 30mm deeper than the thickness of the plaster, which has no strength, with the hole and screw.
 
if you want.

We call them battens not planks

btw if the concrete wall is hard to drill, use a good brand of masonry bit and a big heavy hammer drill (if it's still difficult, try to get someone who has an SDS+ professional drill). .
Forget ANY Hammer Drill - SDS can be got new for £100 - or hired. and is the only thing that will tackle concrete - Other than that it`s all 1st. Class advice ;)
 
now i need to sort out wiring part;
diagram is here //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=257839

can i connect hood to existing FCU?

You can connect the cooker hood to a FCU.
But your electrics look very scary and potentially dangerous, I would seriously suggest you get a quailifed and registered electrician to undertake the job of re-desiging your kitchen's electrical installation.
 

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