Is there a specific connection I need to search for when shopping ?
- Thread starter Dace
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Laminate trim?
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I can't see from picture, I got three wall lights 2 at £2 each and one at £4 from Link and I will admit even if not exactly what I wanted, at that price I was not going to argue. They have no PIR, so £4 one with integral LED comes from a smart 13 amp adaptor, and the two will bulbs, used smart bulbs.
Main thing is ensure water can get out, near impossible to stop water getting in, when it rains it cools the lamp so air contracts and will suck in water, so just ensure it can get out again.
I used silicon sealant at top, but not at bottom.
this was the expensive £4 one, I used this 
sort of thing to control it, the control cost more than the lamp.
Main thing is ensure water can get out, near impossible to stop water getting in, when it rains it cools the lamp so air contracts and will suck in water, so just ensure it can get out again.
I used silicon sealant at top, but not at bottom.
this was the expensive £4 one, I used this sort of thing to control it, the control cost more than the lamp.
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You have answered wrong post. Seems there was a post asking about edging on skirting boards, don't know were it went?Laminate trim?
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from Link?
I mean do all the lamps have universal connections or do they vary? Was hoping to do a big amazon shop tomorrow ta.
and yes im terrified about water ingress, maybe its safer to forget the light?? and seal up totally.
Any new light fitting will be supplied with a connection block for the wires.
Unlikely that anything extra would be needed.
Unlikely that anything extra would be needed.
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Back in the 80's outside lights were often quartz halogen and well over powered, will 500 watt tubes, so having a sensor to only switch on when required was important. Also some method to disable them, switch by the door etc.
But my outside lights today are between 6 and 12 watt, and they don't need the same control, I does depend on the home, last house did have a flood light, but not really required, this house very different, it had 3 switches and plug and socket arrangement when I moved in, and 5 of the lamps had PIR's (passive inferred) detectors, two with likely 150 watt quartz halogen tubes, which switched on off all night if left on when windy, now all compact fluorescent or LED, and moving away from sensors, as they would switch off at most inopportune moments. So now 4 are smart controlled, with 3 still on PIR, I have added one extra lamp, and have two more ready to fit.
All mine have a simple line, neutral and earth connection, well two are class II so no earth, but with PIR fitted some times one has the option of using the PIR or not. But mine with PIR control it is built into the lamp, so are far as connecting just three wires.
But my outside lights today are between 6 and 12 watt, and they don't need the same control, I does depend on the home, last house did have a flood light, but not really required, this house very different, it had 3 switches and plug and socket arrangement when I moved in, and 5 of the lamps had PIR's (passive inferred) detectors, two with likely 150 watt quartz halogen tubes, which switched on off all night if left on when windy, now all compact fluorescent or LED, and moving away from sensors, as they would switch off at most inopportune moments. So now 4 are smart controlled, with 3 still on PIR, I have added one extra lamp, and have two more ready to fit.
All mine have a simple line, neutral and earth connection, well two are class II so no earth, but with PIR fitted some times one has the option of using the PIR or not. But mine with PIR control it is built into the lamp, so are far as connecting just three wires.
May need an extra terminal for the Live Loop if the connection block supplied with the lamp is only 3 terminals for Switched Live, Neutral and Earth.
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cheapest I could get are £10ish on amazon. IP65 though.
And thanks I would have definitely caulked the bottom too, as a noob!
Unlikely an outside light would be three plated.
That's undoubtedly true, but ones with a PIR quite commonly have a S/L as well as a permanent L.
Those with an integral PIR tend to only have the one phase termination so the PIR is only on when the switch is on (or quite often can be overridden by switching off and back on quickly).
Some do, and probably increasingly so, since the PIR's now probably directly control an ELV feed to the LED. However, the traditional ones (particularly pre-LED) usually use(d) a relay to switch LV, in which case the "S/L' was usually made available - both to feed other lights and, in the other direction, to allow manual control of the light(s) (if on-off-on functionality was nlot built in) - and
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