Is this right for domestic oven supply?

If the ovens come with 13A plugs, you could fit a single socket for one.

And a double socket for one oven and the gas hob ign. (may as well fit an MK one)
 
Sponsored Links
MK_k5105whi.jpg


32A DP switch. I prefer this beastie to the 45A cooker switches (where appropriate of course)
 
No different to MK Cooker Switches. I personally don't switch oven switches all that often (ever)
 
Sponsored Links
That and other considerations. They're also obviously useless if there's an existing 2G box there.

I do wish there was more consistency with cooker switches, particularly whether the switch is on/off in the up/down position.

I guess some people deem them 'isolators' and others 'switches'
 
it's possible that they say, for example, that each oven should be protected by a 13A fuse (in plug) or 16A MCB. milbo1990: what do the instructions say?
Have you any examples where the manufacturer's instructions state that the appliance:

must be protected by a 13A fuse when it does not come with a plug and therefore small cable; or

must be protected by a 16A MCB rather than must have a 16A supply (Europe)

and is correct?
 
I do wish there was more consistency with cooker switches, particularly whether the switch is on/off in the up/down position.
Have you come across an 'upside down' one?

Do you mean one that is legitimately installed upside down (as opposed to MI) or that the design makes it appear upside down? I'm a little confused.
 
it's possible that they say, for example, that each oven should be protected by a 13A fuse (in plug) or 16A MCB. milbo1990: what do the instructions say?
Have you any examples where the manufacturer's instructions state that the appliance:
must be protected by a 13A fuse when it does not come with a plug and therefore small cable; or
must be protected by a 16A MCB rather than must have a 16A supply (Europe) .... and is correct?
I was pretty sure that we had an example posted here fairly recently, but I can't currently find it. Watch this space!

Kind Regards, John
 
I thought you meant you had seen some which operate like MCBs - up is on.

I'm with you now. Well, it depends on the design of the switch, some that are designed like light switches are on in the 'up' position

BGE_NBS74.jpg


and those that are designed like the MK one, are on in the 'down' position

M074498P01WL.jpg


The MK ones are particularly annoying with the socket, because the socket switch is wrong compared to every other socket rocker in the world
 
I'm with you now. Well, it depends on the design of the switch, some that are designed like light switches are on in the 'up' position ... and those that are designed like the MK one, are on in the 'down' position ... The MK ones are particularly annoying with the socket, because the socket switch is wrong compared to every other socket rocker in the world
As far as I can see, all the things you illustrate are correct in terms of the conventional arrangement for switches (as opposed to isolators) - the differences you are noticing are those between level and rocker switches - which is normal, for light switches, socket switches or whatever ... "in at the top" for a rocker corresponds to "lever up" for a lever

Kind Regards, John
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top