Joining cables inside trunking

[Taylortwocities]

I simply missed out the word also.
Two concerns:
mixed cables in the trunking where open connections are present
ALSO
the need to provide a method to prevent the conductors in the connections being subsequently pulled out by, perhaps, other cabling being pulled through at a later time.

 

[Jupiter01]

I simply missed out the word also.
Two concerns:
mixed cables in the trunking where open connections are present
ALSO
the need to provide a method to prevent the conductors in the connections being subsequently pulled out by, perhaps, other cabling being pulled through at a later time.

Would this approach satisfy those concerns:

The black rectangle represents the vertical trunking containing all mains cables and we then have a wiska box (in red) neatly butted against this where we can have the wago joints for the cable that needs to be extended.

 

[nitro23456]

What a dogs dinner.

 

[JohnW2]

Would this approach satisfy those concerns:

I suppose it would, regulations-wise - but, as has been observed, it's "orful" !!

Kind Regards, John

 

[Jupiter01]

As @Taylortwocities says, would use crimps and epoxy lined heat shrink, the epoxy stops it being pulled out, you need strain relief so without the wango box no strain relief.

Is this the recommended solution?

 

[Taylortwocities]

Is this the recommended solution?

NO!!
The site is called

12VOLT planet

That must give you a clue......

 

[Jupiter01]

NO!!
The site is called

12VOLT planet

That must give you a clue......

doh!
Is the same principle and could you please point me to the 230v version of these? Assuming that is what is being suggested.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Is this for work for you, in your own house?
What sort of cable is it? These days, many people recommend that crimp connectors are NOT used to crimp on to solid conductors (you will notice that the cable used in the 12v Planet video is stranded.)
Mains voltage crimp connectors require a specific ratchet crimp tool. Its not worth the investment if you only have a few connections to make.

 

[Jupiter01]

Yes, but may also be helpful for the assistance I am providing my brother in law.
The cable in both instances is 2.5mm T&E. Solid cores as you know.

If I understood the suggestions earlier in this post, I may be able to use heat shrink to join the cables. Would this also suffice for the cable join in the wall? And is this an alternative to solder join?

Depending on the crimping tool this requires, I can see that crimping of cables may be helpful elsewhere and perhaps worth considering as a purchase.

I am hoping you can clarify this for me. Thanks again.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Almost all of the cables you will use will be solid core. So crimping is not recommended. I have done it in the distant past and constantly worry about the reliability of the joints!

I may be able to use heat shrink to join the cables.

no. The heat shrink sleeving is used to cover over the reliable join that you have made. Perhaps by solder. That's what I would do.

The reason that WAGO (and similar) connectors were invented was to solve the issue of how to reliably join solid conductor (and other) cables.
My concern would be any possible damage that could happen should a Wago junction be left just floating in your length of trunking.

There are many solutions to this. Something as simple as this, perhaps

Ideal Industries In-Line Push-In Wire Connectors

With its small size and tool-free application, the SpliceLine® from Ideal Industries is a real time-saver when it comes to connecting wires in a wide range of installations – particularly prefabricated wiring, lighting and ring main circuits.Existing wire cut too short? Space too tight to use a...

www.toolstation.com

but think about mechanical strain issues.

 

[bernardgreen]

crimps on solid core cable can appear to be good when first made but over time they can fail as the copper migrates into voids

If there is any space in the crimp tube ( blue ) copper can migrate into that void and as a result the contact pressure reduces

 

[Jupiter01]

but think about mechanical strain issues.

Is soldering and heat shrink the only way to truly get around the above (short of replacing the cable)?
Can support be provided using cable ties (or something similar?) when using the above connector inside trunking?

Thanks for the continued support.

 

[JohnD]

These days, many people recommend that crimp connectors are NOT used to crimp on to solid conductors .

"these days"

was there a time when it was considered acceptable? I know I did it at least once, some years ago.

 

[JohnW2]

"these days" ... was there a time when it was considered acceptable? I know I did it at least once, some years ago.

I've never been formally trained/educated in such matters but, decades ago, I was "taught" by tradesmen with whom I interacted that it was inadvisable to crimp solid conductors, and therefore have ever since thought that way.

Having said that, as I recently wrote, although many people seem to believe that a NASA "Workmanship Standard" forbids the crimping of solid conductors, I suspect that is due to a misinterpretation of a somewhat ambiguous rule that forbids crimping of tinned solid copper conductors. If I'm right, that implies that NASA are happy with the crimping of untinned solid copper conductors, even in the potentially very-high-vibration environments seen in the aerospace industry.

For what it's worth, I have to say that, intuitively, I've always personally been a bit nervous about any sort of essentially "single plane" crimping (which is what we are always talking about here), even for stranded conductors - but that's just me, and who am I to have such reservations?

Kind Regards, John

 

[SUNRAY]

I've tried to find pics of a job I did before I posted but I don't seem to have any.
Following an electrical inspection and numerous detected faults we replaced stage lighting dimmers in a school, originally 4x 6 channel units and 36x circuits terminating on flying leads via choc bloc within the trunking and white metal cable clamps/glands:

One of the 'faults' being unacceptable 'joints within the trunking'.

The school made the decision to do a significant ungrade:
We added 12 more circuits & replaced existing dimmers with 2x 24 channel units which involved major surgery to the 4" metal trunking.

The plan was to do away with the flying leads (had been a constant source of faults). 24 of the circuits reached into one new dimmer pack but the other 12 needed extending. I formed a junction box from a piece of the removed trunking and attatched it the using the existing 3/4" holes with 12 brass bushes & 24 lock rings:

After the works were completed it had to be inspected by the original electricians and they snagged the 'joints within the trunking'. My solution was to add a Dymo label, something like 'Junction Box'.