Kitchen appliance layout

[alanthomaswatson]

All

We're looking at getting a new kitchen installed and are looking at integrated appliances. We're limited for space on the fuse board and I'm looking at potential layouts etc.

No intention of tackling the electrics myself, just planning at the moment.

Does the following appliance layout/connection set up seem right?

1. Cooker - in built single oven on the circuit of the old cooker
2. Microwave - integated oven/microwave combi unit. Manufacturer's data requires plug connection so off a plug socket on the socket ring main?
3. Fridge - integrated. On socket ring.
4. Dishwasher - integrated. On socket ring.
5. Hood - 3A spur. It's easiest to provide this at high level. Would a JB from the lighting circuit work? If not, where are these generally powered from?
6. Hob - Electric induction hob. Manufacturer's data requires plug connection so off a plug socket on the socket ring main?

Reading through everything it seems that 'splitting' the cooker from one unit with two ovens and one hob to three separate units is putting a lot of load on the sockets. (All of the sockets in the house, including the kitchen are on the same 32A ring).

Thoughts much appreciated.

 

[Steve]

6. Hob - Electric induction hob. Manufacturer's data requires plug connection so off a plug socket on the socket ring main?

I find this very hard to believe, unless it is a single burner. What data is this? Most induction hobs use more juice than standard electric hobs. It will require its own circuit. The oven, however, if it is a single oven, should just plug into the ring final circuit.

Do you have a gas hob now? If so, I implore you not to get rid of the gas cooking. I have been using electric hob for the last 10 years, and my new house has a gas hob. I wont go back. Its amazingly good. If you dont have gas available, fair play.

Dont power the hood from the lights. A spur from the socket circuit, with a FCU at worktop level.

Be careful with built in microwave/ovens, they can go over 3kw in some cases, and require their own circuit.

For all built in plugged appliances, use good quality sockets. MK or Crabtree.


Oh hang on, I missed the big about the hob being 3 seperate units. I would provide one circuit for these, switched with a cooker switch, and provide three single sockets (not doubles) below the worktop. Provide a forth socket for the oven if its nearby.

Its recommended to provide a seperate circuit for heating, and for refrigeration, preferably avoiding RCDs but this isnt always possible.


And its highly recommended to split the kitchen sockets onto their own circuit.

 

[alanthomaswatson]

Steve

Thanks for the quick reply.

Double checked and I think you're right (I think I got them the wrong way round).

The hob manual says: (based on Bosch's manual - we haven't decided on the appliances yet but the best detail I could find was here).

"An all pin isolating switch with a contact gap of at least 3mm must be available during installation or the oven (confusingly) must be connected with an earthed socket system."

The oven manual says:
"Power Cable with a plug with earthing contact - The appliance must only be connected to a properly installed protective contact socket."

I'm now confused as to which one can be 'plugged in' and which needs to be on a separate fuse. Any ideas?

Noted regarding the gas hob. We do have gas but the kitchen is at the exact opposite side of the house from the gas meter. Our boiler is effectively directly above where the hob would be though so it may be possible to tap off. Do the gas hobs usually run in 10mm or 15mm pipe? Can the pipe be hidden in the wall?

Thanks for the note about the microwave/oven combi. The one we looked at maxes out at 3.4kw - didn't realise that. Will probably look at a double built in and buy a normal microwave.

Totally appreciate where you're coming from with the separate fuses. We only have four in the board and they're all used. When we put the new boiler in we used the one made spare from the old electric shower but I suppose we could put this on the socket ring and put the kitchen sockets on a separate fuse. The freezer is down stairs in the cellar so it wouldn't be affected if the kitchen fuse popped.

Apologies for the tome!

Thanks Alan

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I'm now confused as to which one can be 'plugged in' and which needs to be on a separate fuse. Any ideas?

Cut to the chase.

What's the consumption of the appliances?

If more than 2990W at 230V or 3120W at 240V it can't be plugged in.

Noted regarding the gas hob. We do have gas but the kitchen is at the exact opposite side of the house from the gas meter. Our boiler is effectively directly above where the hob would be though so it may be possible to tap off. Do the gas hobs usually run in 10mm or 15mm pipe? Can the pipe be hidden in the wall?

Speak to a gas fitter.

Do what's needed to keep a gas hob.

Totally appreciate where you're coming from with the separate fuses. We only have four in the board and they're all used.

If you only have 4, and the board looks a bit like this:

then budget for a replacement or a new additional one for the kitchen.

When we put the new boiler in we used the one made spare from the old electric shower but I suppose we could put this on the socket ring and put the kitchen sockets on a separate fuse.

RCD protection?

 

[alanthomaswatson]

Thanks for the reply.

I've figured out what needs to go where, especially as the combi microwave idea is getting binned and I'll try and get a gas hob out in.

Apologies if I'm a bit vague, but I don't know what is the best information to give, hence why I'm on here asking for advice.

It is an old Wylex box with four fuses, that have been changed out for the little plug in mini-trip things. Anything that's been done to date has been done by a qualified spark and they've always been happy with the installation, the problem is the number of ways.

I appreciate that no-one likes giving budgets without seeing the job but how much should I be looking to pay for a new fuseboard? Obviously it's difficult to quantify without seeing but ball park, is it £200 or £2,000.

Thanks

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Nearer the first then the second, but probably not as low as £200 for a proper job.

But if he's there anyway doing work in the kitchen, it won't add a lot more than £200.

 

[davelx]

Nearer the first then the second,

Et Tu, BAS (that's one "typo" that seems to be spreading like wildfire and it drives me nuts!)

 

[ban-all-sheds]