kitchen cabinet downlights

[IanJ]

For once I've tried searching for an answer to this on the forum before I post the question, but I can't quite find what I'm looking for, so here goes ...

I want to install 4 lv halogen downlights under my kitchen cabinets - 2 on one side of the kitchen, 2 on the other. I've seen various pre-wired kits for this, but none of them have long enough pre-wired cable to span the width of the room (I want to control all four lights from one switch).

First question ...
Is it possible to simply extend the cabling for these kits using 1.5mm lighting cable? Is the pre-wiring for convenience, or safe operation (or both?).

If not, are there any other options? I've had a look at Lighting Direct and Screwfix, but couldn't find much of use. Any pointers to suitable products would be greatly appreciated!


And another question ...
I don't think I'll be able to run these lights from the existing lighting circuit, because the switch for the ceiling lights just switches the live, and I don't have access into the ceiling void to pick up a neutral.
So, can I replace the existing (ceiling-level) fixed outlet for the extractor fan with a FCU, then run both the extractor fan and the cabinet downlights from there? (with the appropriate fuse rating of course)?

And just one more ...
Across the top of the wall, from one side of the room to the other, there's existing plastic trunking containing 1.5mm lighting cable to outside lights. To get the cabinet lighting cable from one side of the room to the other, can I run the cable inside the same trunking? There's plenty of room inside the trunking. Load on current cable is 3 x 60W; assume 4 x 20W for cabinet lights.

Thanks!

 

[plugwash]

For once I've tried searching for an answer to this on the forum before I post the question, but I can't quite find what I'm looking for, so here goes ...

I want to install 4 lv halogen downlights under my kitchen cabinets - 2 on one side of the kitchen, 2 on the other. I've seen various pre-wired kits for this, but none of them have long enough pre-wired cable to span the width of the room (I want to control all four lights from one switch).

First question ...
Is it possible to simply extend the cabling for these kits using 1.5mm lighting cable? Is the pre-wiring for convenience, or safe operation (or both?).

sure its possible to extend
you should really enclose the joints in a chockbox or similar
however there can be volt drop issues in doing so (volt drop is much worse at such low voltages

remember there is nothing stopping you from having multiple transformers on one switch some even prefer a seperate transformer per light

it should also be noted that many consider theese kits a bad buy as the transformers are often rather ****ty

if you do decide to extend the low voltage side accross the room i would use something like 4mm or 6mm to keep the volt drop down

If not, are there any other options? I've had a look at Lighting Direct and Screwfix, but couldn't find much of use. Any pointers to suitable products would be greatly appreciated!


And another question ...
I don't think I'll be able to run these lights from the existing lighting circuit, because the switch for the ceiling lights just switches the live, and I don't have access into the ceiling void to pick up a neutral.
So, can I replace the existing (ceiling-level) fixed outlet for the extractor fan with a FCU, then run both the extractor fan and the cabinet downlights from there? (with the appropriate fuse rating of course)?

can't see any real problem with doing this
I assume the fan has a built in switch and you plan to mount a lightswitch for the lights in a more accessible place

And just one more ...
Across the top of the wall, from one side of the room to the other, there's existing plastic trunking containing 1.5mm lighting cable to outside lights. To get the cabinet lighting cable from one side of the room to the other, can I run the cable inside the same trunking? There's plenty of room inside the trunking. Load on current cable is 3 x 60W; assume 4 x 20W for cabinet lights.

Thanks!

 

[Damocles]

I think there should have been a yes at the end of that last post.

Is the fan running from the lighting circuit? If so it is presumably already protected by the 6A breaker/fuse, so fused control unit becomes unneccessary. But you do need a sensible way of wiring it in and providing a switch. If the lighting power is behind the connection plate, then you could channel out the wall to run a cable to your light switch.

if it is on a ring or other power circuit, then it would need fcu protection.

This is a standard low power fan, not a whopping great thing? Just checking, in case the circuit might be running at full capacity already.

 

[IanJ]

Thanks plugwash/Damocles

Just checked - the fan (standard above-hob kitchen extractor, nothing heavy) runs off a ring main that serves the kitchen and utility room ... usual appliances (fridge, dishwasher, washer-dryer, freezer, microwave, kettle, toaster) from a 32A MCB at the CU. Cooker is on a separate circuit.

So in principle am I okay to run (say) 4 x 20W downlights off this circuit via a FCU and a suitably-positioned switch?

Cheers

 

[Damocles]

yes. That is, assuming the ring power is actually behind the plate, not just a switched supply.

Didn't quite understand whether this fan has a fcu or is hard wired into the 32A ring?

 

[IanJ]

The fan is hard-wired into the 32A ring via a plate with a cable outlet in the centre, mounted high up on the wall above the fan. I'm planning to replace this with a FCU, then use it to feed both the fan and the new cabinet lights (the fan has its own switch; for the lights I'll replace the current ceiling light switch with a double switch; wire the ceiling lights on one side, and the new cabinet lights on the other).

Does that sound OK?

 

[Damocles]

Another snag. You are not supposed to take two cables from different circuits into the same switch, unless it has a warning label. (in case someone switches off one breaker without realising he needs to switch off two)

A solution would be to have separate switches.

Of course, lots of houses do have this feature.


Depending which way the joists run and the type of ceiling, are you sure it is not possible to push a wire through the light fitting hole back to the wall to provide power from the lighting? Might require some cautious enlarging and refilling of the holes.