kitchen oulets for appliances - location?

[voycie]

Hi, Im just about to plasterboard our kitchen extension in preparation for plaster then 2nd fix. I have a question about the location of the socket outlets for the built-in appliances. I've heard that Part P requires them to be located next to the built in appliance (eg in the unit next to the appliance) rather than directly begind them (presumably so you can isolate them before removing a faulty appliance).

Just wanting to check is this the case, and are there any specific requirements I need to consider? I have the kitchen planned so know where the applicances will go - I want to make sure that I get the locations right so there's no issue with having the work signed off once its all finished!

Also, would this apply to an item like a washing machine? I've located a single socket behind where the thing will sit, also same for a dishwasher.

Any thoughts, or links to the right info would be appreciated.

 

[ColJack]

i'm not a domestic sparky, i'm an industrial / commecrial one so bear with me..

I believe that it is so the appliance can be disconnected without pulling it out for testing reasons...

 

[Spark123]

It is always advantageous to be able to isolate an appliance without having to pull it out, say if the washing machine develops a fault and trips the RCD it is a lot easier finding it than having to pull out the oven, fridge, freezer, dryer etc to eventually unplug the correct one.
Appliances built into the furniture need to have their plug or fcu readily accessable.
The routes I prefer for free standing appliances are to either install a double pole switch unit above the work surface and the socket outlet below or install a double pole switched FCU above the surface and an outlet plate/unfused plug+socket below for the appliance.
I also prefer to avoid using double sockets where they could be used to supply two heavy current using appliances such as a washing machine and tumble dryer, electric oven etc and just use singles. Also remember to keep the switches/sockets at least a foot away on the horizontal away from a draining board or a cooker.
I take it building control are doing the necessary re the certification?

 

[securespark]

Building Regs etc.... blah, blah. 300mm from hobs, sinks, and not mounted in furniture, only to the fabric of the building.

A tricky one, but some inspectors may quibble.

 

[voycie]

thanks for the info. So, suppposing I have a tall built in built in oven with microwave over, both housed in units that have storage above/below the appliance, would it be acceptable to have the switching in the wall begind the storage part, presumably with an area of the back of the unit cut out to reveal the socket/switch?

Yes I'm looking to have the work signed off by building regs or a spar kwith Part P (might builder knows someone who can do this). I'm not carrying out the electrical work myself, I just want to make sure I leave all the tails in the right place!

 

[Steve]

thanks for the info. So, suppposing I have a tall built in built in oven with microwave over, both housed in units that have storage above/below the appliance, would it be acceptable to have the switching in the wall begind the storage part, presumably with an area of the back of the unit cut out to reveal the socket/switch?

NO!!!

In the back of a cupboard is not "readily accessible". You'll fill the cupboards up with pots and pans and old hand blenders etc. On the wall to the side of the tall unit would be acceptable though.

 

[voycie]

out of interest, is this madatory or just good practice?

 

[Steve]

Mandatory. The switches are not obvious when they are in the back of a cupboard - in an emergency, you're not going to want to start searching through cupboards for switches and plugs etc.

And of course if someone else moves in and doesn't know the switches are there, and theres a fire or other emergency, they arent going to be happy if they cant find the power switch.

Do it properly and have switches in an obvious location.

 

[voycie]

ok thanks - can i ask if the following image makes sense then, based on the discussion above...

 

[securespark]

As long as neither cooking appliance is more than 2m from the isolation switch.

 

[voycie]

the island is less than 2m away as the crow flies, but the cable run would be longer I guess. I presume the two meters away is to allow the operative to islolate the cooker quickly rather than have to walk/run over to a switch the other side of the room..!

 

[RF Lighting]

the island is less than 2m away as the crow flies, but the cable run would be longer I guess. I presume the two meters away is to allow the operative to islolate the cooker quickly rather than have to walk/run over to a switch the other side of the room..!

Yep.

Cable run can be longer, but 2M so it is nice and handy in an emergency.

 

[JohnD]

hee hee!

I see you've given yourself lots of extra work by designing the cables to run up and down to the ceiling

In kitchens, where it is convenient to have a number of switches and outlets about 150mm above worktop, it is IMO much better to run the cable in the same plane as the row of sockets.

This is more economical in labour and materials

The cable run is obvious

And it is also easier to add more sockets in the row later

BTW you do not need to feed a socket from an FCU since you then have two fuses for the same appliance. A DP switch is more suitable if you are using square-pin fused plugs.

If the oven is a single one (typically 10A) then I would have gone for a socket outlet, otherwise the only fault protection is the 32A or 40A MCB at the CU. I have a preference for sockets behind appliances as it is a bit easier to unplug when you pull then out for repair or replacement, and they mostly come with moulded plugs anyway.

 

[voycie]

Its a solid 9" wall, and I've battened it since it has a a sandwich of foil insulation between the wall and plasterboard. So, there's no chasing to do and I had plenty of cable so it wasn't any extra work...I prefer to do it this way so I can confidently screw the boards to the battens as I know that the cable runs don't pass through the battening!!

I take your point though and for sure If I was channelling the wall I'd run them on the horizontal...

 

[voycie]

thanks to all for the help so far, I'm much happier now!

one last question, my washing machine sits next to a sink, under a windowseal, so there isnt really an option to place a switch closeby above the worktop which would then run down to the socket.

What I propose to do is place the switch on the wall on the adjacent wall at worktop height, about 2m away. The cable run from the switch to the single socket would then run along the floor (protected) - as it's yet to be screeded. Does that sound OK?