make sure its not running down from the cistern.
if theres play on the pipe you can saw of the first few threads
if theres play on the pipe you can saw of the first few threads
Leaking connection between plastic thread and copper pipe
- Thread starter Jim1982
- Start date
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Right. I bought a new float valve and replaced the old one with it.
Unfortunately the plastic thread on the new valve is a bit too short to actually connect with the copper pipe, so I can't screw the nut onto the thread.
After a bit of messing about I managed to just about get a connection, but unsurprisingly it leaks.
The original float valve thread is a bit longer, so that the copper pipe sits about 2-3mm inside the plastic thread.
Is this enough?
I can't seem to tighten the nut up much and I'm wondering if the pipe is a bit too short for the job.
Also noticed that the pipe doesn't sit quite vertical when connected to the cistern. Its not much, just an angle of 1-2 degrees to one side, which no doubt does not help.
It has however been OK for 3 years, so whatever they sealed it with before did the job for a while...
Unfortunately the plastic thread on the new valve is a bit too short to actually connect with the copper pipe, so I can't screw the nut onto the thread.
After a bit of messing about I managed to just about get a connection, but unsurprisingly it leaks.
The original float valve thread is a bit longer, so that the copper pipe sits about 2-3mm inside the plastic thread.
Is this enough?
I can't seem to tighten the nut up much and I'm wondering if the pipe is a bit too short for the job.
Also noticed that the pipe doesn't sit quite vertical when connected to the cistern. Its not much, just an angle of 1-2 degrees to one side, which no doubt does not help.
It has however been OK for 3 years, so whatever they sealed it with before did the job for a while...
if the copper pipe is to short and pulling when screwed up to the float valve it won't last it will just damage the thread.
can't you get a piece of longer pipe and fit between the iso valve and the float valve.
no joint will last if its pulling.
can't you get a piece of longer pipe and fit between the iso valve and the float valve.
no joint will last if its pulling.
I think that is going to have to be the next thing to try.
I'm tempted to undo the same area of pipe on the other toilet in the house and see how that looks in comparison, to see what they've used to ensure it stays sealed, or if theres some fundamental difference.
I'd probably end up with 2 leaking toilets then though!
Tempted to get a professional in to sort this out.
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Thanks very much, I will get one of those tomorrow lunchtime.
I think I've been to B&Q every day this week so far picking up various bits and pieces to try and fix leak.
Trouble is I am also eating from the burger van thats outside as well. I'd better get this fixed soon as my cholesterol levels are going up every day.
P.S what is that fitting actually called
its a 15mm x 1/2" tap connector.
you may need a bit of pipe aswell and a new 15mm olive for the iso valve.
don't really want to buy a full length for about 8"
you may need a bit of pipe aswell and a new 15mm olive for the iso valve.
don't really want to buy a full length for about 8"
I think I have just spotted the obvious fault here.
When you manage to pull your head back in the confined space and look at it from a distance, you can see that the float valve thread is not going into the water pipe straight.
The cistern is too far forward, so the pipe is at a slight backwards angle.
I thought I would test this by connecting the float valve directly to the water pipe so its guaranteed to be straight. (and just catch the gushing water for a minute while I test it).
When this is done, there is no leak from the connecting nut.
The cistern can't move back any further, I think I need to move the toilet about half an inch forward then it will be good.
Either that or the water pipe needs to be half an inch further out from the wall...
I suspect this is what is causing the problem.
edit: I just disconnected the copper pipe from the ball valve and then connected the copper pipe to the plastic thread while it was unattached, so made sure the fit was straight.
so the bending pressure is now on a different part of the pipe (at the top of the valve). Having PTFE taped up the threads on this join, and screwed the cistern into the wall so its making the connection as straight as possible, it now seems to be leak free for the moment.
I will give it a few days before I celebrate though.
When you manage to pull your head back in the confined space and look at it from a distance, you can see that the float valve thread is not going into the water pipe straight.
The cistern is too far forward, so the pipe is at a slight backwards angle.
I thought I would test this by connecting the float valve directly to the water pipe so its guaranteed to be straight. (and just catch the gushing water for a minute while I test it).
When this is done, there is no leak from the connecting nut.
The cistern can't move back any further, I think I need to move the toilet about half an inch forward then it will be good.
Either that or the water pipe needs to be half an inch further out from the wall...
I suspect this is what is causing the problem.
edit: I just disconnected the copper pipe from the ball valve and then connected the copper pipe to the plastic thread while it was unattached, so made sure the fit was straight.
so the bending pressure is now on a different part of the pipe (at the top of the valve). Having PTFE taped up the threads on this join, and screwed the cistern into the wall so its making the connection as straight as possible, it now seems to be leak free for the moment.
I will give it a few days before I celebrate though.
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