Magnetic Filter Install

[Andy B 23]

Hello Everyone

After picking up valuable advice from this forum over the years it is now time to post my first question...

I would like to install a magnetic filter to my system, the heat only boiler is installed in the kitchen, the gap between the top of the boiler & the ceiling is tight so I am looking to install the filter in the airing cupboard, I have attached a picture showing the set up. I understand to get the best results you need the filter on the return before the boiler but I am going to have to resort to plan B. I can identify some of the pipes in the airing cupboard but not all & I am looking for guidance on the best location for the filter, I have 4 pipes within the airing cupboard going from left to right:

Pipe 1 - unsure but marked up with a B so heading back to the boiler?

Pipe 2 - flow through pump & motorised valve supplying the HW tank

Pipe 3 - return from HW tank & bypass valve (I think), also linked to pipe 1

Pipe 4 - flow through motorised valve supplying the CH

It is pipes 1 & 3 that I am unsure about, as they are linked but both pass through the airing cupboard floor & disappear off. Any guidance on these 2 pipes & the relationship between them would be greatly appreciated as would any suggestions on the best location for the filter?

Regarding installing the filter (Magna Pro 2) I note that some installers have wrapped the olives with PTFE tape & the installation manual states to use jointing compound, any thoughts on the best method of sealing or should the olives be left to do the job without anything being added?

Thanks in advance

Andrew

 

[Madrab]

Looks like an S Plan -

From the left - Pipe 1 looks like the main return to the boilerr, that has the manual valve on it yes. Pipe 3 looks like the return from the cylinder via the lockshield and the pipe up through the floor into that is the return from the CH, the HW tees into the return and is the last connection on the main return pipe to the boiler, that avoids reverse circulation.

Pipe 2 up into the pump would be the main flow from the boiler. If all above is correct then pipe 4 would be the main CH flow controlled by the 2 port valve. Can you not gauge where the pipes go through the floor and where they exit out the ceiling below and into the boiler to confirm?

If that is all the case then the filter can go on that horizontal section of return pipe before the reducing tee with the vertical air vent.

 

[JohnD]

Regarding installing the filter (Magna Pro 2) I note that some installers have wrapped the olives with PTFE tape & the installation manual states to use jointing compound, any thoughts on the best method of sealing or should the olives be left to do the job without anything being added?

Sometimes bare olives will form a good seal. Adding PTFE tape on the olive, or jointing compound, improves the chances. It is easier to add it on first assembly than to take apart a leaking joint and add it later. Tape is cleaner to use.

Some people would have you believe their joints never leak.

 

[Madrab]

should the olives be left to do the job without anything being added?

With a clean new install with new nuts and olives then nothing should really be needed. Though a wrap of gas PTFE tape around the olives wouldn't cause an issue.

 

[Andy B 23]

Sometimes bare olives will form a good seal. Adding PTFE tape on the olive, or jointing compound, improves the chances. It is easier to add it on first assembly than to take apart a leaking joint and add it later. Tape is cleaner to use.

Some people would have you believe their joints never leak.

Thank you JohnD for taking the time to respond, much appreciated.

 

[Andy B 23]

With a clean new install with new nuts and olives then nothing should really be needed. Though a wrap of gas PTFE tape around the olives wouldn't cause an issue.

Thank you Madrab for taking the time to respond, much appreciated.

 

[Andy B 23]

Looks like an S Plan -

From the left - Pipe 1 looks like the main return to the boilerr, that has the manual valve on it yes. Pipe 3 looks like the return from the cylinder via the lockshield and the pipe up through the floor into that is the return from the CH, the HW tees into the return and is the last connection on the main return pipe to the boiler, that avoids reverse circulation.

Pipe 2 up into the pump would be the main flow from the boiler. If all above is correct then pipe 4 would be the main CH flow controlled by the 2 port valve. Can you not gauge where the pipes go through the floor and where they exit out the ceiling below and into the boiler to confirm?

If that is all the case then the filter can go on that horizontal section of return pipe before the reducing tee with the vertical air vent.

Hi Madrab

Thanks for the detailed response.

I had a basic understand of pipes 1 - 4 & your explanation has confirmed this for me.

The tank is located in the airing cupboard on the 1st floor in the centre of the house, once the pipework leaves the airing cupboard it disappears out of view into the bulkhead above the stairs & then into the ceiling/wall voids, the boiler is located on the far wall of the kitchen which is a distance away from the airing cupboard so I am unable to gauge which pipe is which.

I have measured between the two 22mm elbows on the horizontal section of pipe & I only have around 130mm so would have to use the Magna Micro or similar? Which cleaners do you favour?

I understand that these units have to be installed in the vertical position, as my proposed installation pipe is horizontal are you able to rotate the valves enabling the canister to be in the vertical position?

By installing in this location all the return water from the HW & CH will be filtered?

After researching filters it is clear that they can collect a lot of debris from the system, I have also seen posts that say a well maintained clean system is the best thing to have & the filters are just cleaning up the mess so to speak, they also reference potential filter leaks, what are your thoughts.

 

[Madrab]

I have measured between the two 22mm elbows on the horizontal section of pipe & I only have around 130mm so would have to use the Magna Micro or similar? Which cleaners do you favour?

Depends on what's being installed - If I'm installing an Intergas boiler then I pair that with their filter (rebadged Fernox TF1) that's to give an extra 2 Yrs warranty. I find them (TF1's) to be a good piece of kit.

I also like the Spirotraps, installed a number of them.

Everyone seems to rave about Adey's but I don't like these fibre plastic materials as the threads on them always seem to get sticky after a time, and can be hard to separate, even with silicone grease on them.

are you able to rotate the valves enabling the canister to be in the vertical position?

Most of them you can, yes.

By installing in this location all the return water from the HW & CH will be filtered

If the installers have followed standards and that tee from the cylinder is the last on the return then that horizontal and vertical heading left and down should be the main return back to the boiler, so yes.

Yes a well maintained and conditioned CH system (Cleaned and inhibited with 0 leaks etc) will look after the boiler itself and a properly maintained system doesn't even need a filter. Sadly a high % of systems these days aren't looked after therefore the filter is the catch all to protect the boiler. I've never had the need to have a filter on my system. Some filters do leak, hence why I would always go for a metal filter.

 

[JohnD]

Everyone seems to rave about Adey's but I don't like these fibre plastic materials as the threads on them always seem to get sticky after a time, and can be hard to separate, even with silicone grease on them.

I found PTFE tape on the threads did the trick.

 

[Andy B 23]

Thank you Madrab & John D for taking the time to respond, certainly plenty of detail for me to consider which is greatly appreciated, based on the excellent responses received to my first ever post I am now going to post again...

 

[JohnD]

There used to be lots of complaints about the original Magnaclean valves leaking. I first had an early one, and I also had trouble with the thread.

The design seems to have changed now but I don't know how good they are.

I found them magnificent at collecting black sludge. X400 loosens it nicely.

I also have an early Spiro, and the drain valve wore out and leaks if I remove its cap. I will fit a new one, one day.

 

[Andy B 23]

Yes a well maintained and conditioned CH system (Cleaned and inhibited with 0 leaks etc) will look after the boiler itself and a properly maintained system doesn't even need a filter. Sadly a high % of systems these days aren't looked after therefore the filter is the catch all to protect the boiler. I've never had the need to have a filter on my system. Some filters do leak, hence why I would always go for a metal filter.

You reference a metal filter is your preference, as I only have 130mm between the 22mm elbows on the horizontal pipe many filters are too big, you referenced a TF1 as being a good piece of kit, after researching I found the FERNOX 62248 TF1 OMEGA FILTER SLIP SOCKET CONNECTION only requires a pipe cut out of 70mm, is this the filter you were referencing?

 

[screamer]

The TF1 Omega 62249 with valves has a larger cut out size

Fernox TF1 OMEGA Filter with Isolating Valves 22mm 62249

Buy TF1 Omega filter 62249. Easy to install – fits on horizontal and vertical pipework in both flow directions. The filter can operate at an angle of 45°

www.plumb2u.com

 

[Madrab]

You reference a metal filter is your preference, as I only have 130mm between the 22mm elbows on the horizontal pipe many filters are too big, you referenced a TF1 as being a good piece of kit, after researching I found the FERNOX 62248 TF1 OMEGA FILTER SLIP SOCKET CONNECTION only requires a pipe cut out of 70mm, is this the filter you were referencing?

Yup, and you don't really need to use 2 valves, just the system side one.