Hi,
Our Main Combi 24 hot water and central heating boiler appears to be playing up. Every now and again, when the boiler is heating the house, the heating cuts out even though the house hasn’t yet met its temperature. e.g. yesterday evening I got home at 6pm, the boiler had been set to come on at 4pm and heat the house to 21 deg C, but when I got in it was still only 18 deg C and the radiators were barely warm. When I went upstairs to see what the boiler was doing, I could hear the pump running but it was not burning any gas.
I moved the switch to the reset position for a couple of seconds, and then back to the normal position, and lo and behold it immediately fired up and ran fine for the rest of the day.
If this was an isolated case then I wouldn’t be so worried, however last winter it did similar things and I had engineers from a local (Watford) firm come and look at it on several occasions, and they did things like replace the sensor, the AAV, and the heat exchanger, but the problem persisted.
In the end, they came to the conclusion that the boiler was actually working correctly – they said that the boiler would come on, and would cut out occasionally when it (the boiler itself) got too hot and would then come back on again. At this point, I had spent so much money on their repeat visits that even though I was doubtful, I took them at their word. As the weather got warmer it became less of an issue and I forgot about it.
Now it has got cold again and there is a more of a demand on the boiler, the problem has flared up again (no pun intended) and I’m now of the opinion that what they told me last year (about it working correctly) cannot be true. If the boiler had correctly shut down because it had overheated, then surely pressing the reset switch would not make it magically come back on? If it was too hot, then it would still be too hot when turned back on and so should still have refused to burn.
So, I am thinking that the problem is perhaps more of a logic problem? Could it be the PCB has got an issue?
Or is there something else which would explain this issue?
Any help would be much appreciated.
Ackoman
Our Main Combi 24 hot water and central heating boiler appears to be playing up. Every now and again, when the boiler is heating the house, the heating cuts out even though the house hasn’t yet met its temperature. e.g. yesterday evening I got home at 6pm, the boiler had been set to come on at 4pm and heat the house to 21 deg C, but when I got in it was still only 18 deg C and the radiators were barely warm. When I went upstairs to see what the boiler was doing, I could hear the pump running but it was not burning any gas.
I moved the switch to the reset position for a couple of seconds, and then back to the normal position, and lo and behold it immediately fired up and ran fine for the rest of the day.
If this was an isolated case then I wouldn’t be so worried, however last winter it did similar things and I had engineers from a local (Watford) firm come and look at it on several occasions, and they did things like replace the sensor, the AAV, and the heat exchanger, but the problem persisted.
In the end, they came to the conclusion that the boiler was actually working correctly – they said that the boiler would come on, and would cut out occasionally when it (the boiler itself) got too hot and would then come back on again. At this point, I had spent so much money on their repeat visits that even though I was doubtful, I took them at their word. As the weather got warmer it became less of an issue and I forgot about it.
Now it has got cold again and there is a more of a demand on the boiler, the problem has flared up again (no pun intended) and I’m now of the opinion that what they told me last year (about it working correctly) cannot be true. If the boiler had correctly shut down because it had overheated, then surely pressing the reset switch would not make it magically come back on? If it was too hot, then it would still be too hot when turned back on and so should still have refused to burn.
So, I am thinking that the problem is perhaps more of a logic problem? Could it be the PCB has got an issue?
Or is there something else which would explain this issue?
Any help would be much appreciated.
Ackoman
