Most Likely Causes Of Clunking From NS Front Hub Suspension?

[ReganAndCarter]

Recently I started getting a clunking noise from the NS front wheel area on my 2004 Scudo van (108,000 miles) on any uneven road surfaces that's getting worse. With the wheel on the ground, if I kneel facing the wheel/hub cap and grab the tyre at the top 12 o'clock position and move it in and out I can feel slight movement and I get the same clunking/rattling noise as I move it in and out.

I realise it's very difficult to diagnose with a brief description, but can any experts hazard a guess as to what the likely causes may be?

 

[JohnD]

Either a very worn out ball joint, or a rubber Bush.

Get a torch and look for the movement as you wiggle it. If you put your hand on a few parts you will feel the one that clonks.

When was it last MoT'd?

 

[Burnerman]

I'd go for the bottom ball joint, but another big player in this area is the drop link (stabiliser) that connects the front strut to the anti roll bar.
If it is the ball joint, it's often better to replace the complete suspension arm - as it comes with new rubber bushes.
John

 

[JohnD]

And the one on the other side is pretty sure to be the same age and the same mileage so about due for replacement as well.

NS wears faster due to extra grit and water splashing up from the gutter.

 

[carmanmemoranda]

Ball joint is possible.

Also, security of strut to hub. Top mount. Wheel bearing.

Any excess movement with wheel still on ground needs Urgent investigation.

 

[DiyNutJob]

but can any experts hazard a guess as to what the likely causes may be?

I am guessing you need to use your ear and locate the clunk.

 

[cdbe]

I hate suspensions! Had an issue with mine recently, it started making what sounded like, from in the car, a loud but dull clunking noise when turning. Google just gives you a thousand possible causes. I eventually traced it to a knackered top strut mount - with it jacked up and the wheel off I could see and hear the top of the spring "twanging" against the seized top mount when I turned the hub from lock to lock.

I put "twanging" into Google and it pretty much came up with the top mount as the cause.

Before this I'd tried to investigate the various components lower down, but was at a bit of a loss - I'm ok with drop links as it's fairly easy to feel play in them but anything else down there I've never come across a faulty part to make a meaningful comparison.

Possibly (and if you're up for a DIY repair) an MOT would pick it up if you can't find anything obvious. But I did this once and it sailed through despite a very definite knock whe driving.

 

[thomp1983]

I find my local mot only place are normally happy to put it on their lift between mot's and will identify it for you in exchange for a couple of quid in the tea kitty, I've done this a couple of times when they've been awkward to identify with it jacked up.

They also generally have the experience to be able to tell you what part it'll be on different cars as they see all the common failures.

 

[ReganAndCarter]

Thanks to everyone for your advice. I've had a quick look and only thing I can notice visually without a helper is that the bushes on the bottom of roll bar link where it joins to wishbone/ control are a bit perished. Items number 5 on here -

1DE87C9C4DFEB7A5413C7062552CCD24.png

• ReganAndCarter
• 26 Sep 2023

Will get my brother to help rock the wheel later in week while I have a look and feel what's going on.

JohnD>>>>>>>> The MOT is due end of Oct. Had the van since it was 2.5 years old and never failed an MOT. Better get busy, or this fault will break my run of good luck.

 

[Mottie]

That's the anti-roll bar link. You'll get all new rubbers and washers by just buying part number 4. Unless the rubbers are totally missing, unlikely to be that though - that type of link doesn't give the knocking trouble you get with the type that has a ball joint at either end.

 

[carmanmemoranda]

Thanks to everyone for your advice. I've had a quick look and only thing I can notice visually without a helper is that the bushes on the bottom of roll bar link where it joins to wishbone/ control are a bit perished. Items number 5 on here -

1DE87C9C4DFEB7A5413C7062552CCD24.png

• ReganAndCarter
• 26 Sep 2023

Will get my brother to help rock the wheel later in week while I have a look and feel what's going on.

JohnD>>>>>>>> The MOT is due end of Oct. Had the van since it was 2.5 years old and never failed an MOT. Better get busy, or this fault will break my run of good luck.

Doubt if that will allow wheel to rock whilst it is on the ground.

Will just give extra roll on corners (possibly) and/or knocking on bumps

 

[Old Salt]

Jack car just off the ground and put a pry bar under the tyre. Move the bar up and down whilst checking underneath to see any movement.

 

[ReganAndCarter]

That's the anti-roll bar link. You'll get all new rubbers and washers by just buying part number 4. Unless the rubbers are totally missing, unlikely to be that though - that type of link doesn't give the knocking trouble you get with the type that has a ball joint at either end.

When I identify the cause of the clunking, I'm also going to replace the ARB links or just the bottom bushes, at least. Just watched a YT video of someone replacing the same type of links on a Ducato. For something so simple they were a 'mare to get off. The bottom bolt and 2 bushes were no problem, but the top of the link where it is mounted on thread on end of ARB was completely seized on. No amount of big hammers could shift the link. The sleeve inside the bush must have virtually welded itself on with rust. Had to remove whole ARB in the end and cut/grind link off.

Are these types of links always that difficult? If so, I may just do the two perished individual lower bushes for now as the bush in the top seems really good. If it goes in the future, I'll bite the bullet and get the ARB out.

 

[ReganAndCarter]

Jack car just off the ground and put a pry bar under the tyre. Move the bar up and down whilst checking underneath to see any movement.

Tried that earlier but without pry bar. Jacked the wheel off the ground and tried rocking it and the play and rattling had gone. Thinking about it, I think the other front wheel still on the ground and having all the weight on it caused the anti-roll bar to twist upwards putting influence on the side with the problem and tightening it up.

Will try again with both front wheels off the ground so no ARB force applied and confusing the issue.

 

[Old Salt]

…and use a pry bar it will show up any worn components in the suspension