MOT Test Failure - Help Needed!

[WinstonSmith84]

Hi,

I had my car (mk3 Ford Fiesta) tested yesterday and it failed on the following things:

001 Nearside stop lamp remains on when the brakes are released [1.3.2c]
002 Offside stop lamp remains on when the brakes are released [1.3.2c]
003 Exhaust emissions carbon monoxide content after 2nd fast idle excessive [7.3.2b]
004 Exhaust emissions hydrocarbon content after 2nd fast idle excessive [7.3.2b]
005 Exhaust emissions Lambda reading after 2nd fast idle outside specified limits [7.3.2b]
006 Nearside outer front constant velocity joint gaiter split [2.5.C.1a]

Apparently, the main thing I have to worry about is the emissions. The tester said that a number of things could have caused it to fail on that, from needing a new air filter to other more expensive stuff (Which I can't remember). I've been reading that it's wise to make sure the engine is hot before you get it tested, which I didn't do. Other than that, what could have caused it to fail on this, and how would I go about finding out what exactly needs sorting?

Do garages charge much to do emissions tests? Cause if not, I'll give the car a good thrashing and then get it tested. Maybe I should also buy a new air filter as well, just in case?

What about the other stuff as well? The stop lights stay on permanently. What could be causing that, and how would I resolve it? And what about the nearside outer front constant velocity joint gaiter? How would I get that sorted?

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated...[/b]

 

[^neo^]

emissions are your biggest problem.
Change the air filter, fuel filter and spark plugs, and also spray some carb cleaner into the air intake (instructions on the tin, can get it from halfords)
Gaitor is easy enough to do, but if you're limited on tools, get a garage to do it. Any more than £40 tell em to get stuffed.
Brake lights will be the switch on the top of the pedal. Few quid for a new one, and 10 minute job for a novice to fit

 

[WinstonSmith84]

emissions are your biggest problem.
Change the air filter, fuel filter and spark plugs, and also spray some carb cleaner into the air intake (instructions on the tin, can get it from halfords)
Gaitor is easy enough to do, but if you're limited on tools, get a garage to do it. Any more than £40 tell em to get stuffed.
Brake lights will be the switch on the top of the pedal. Few quid for a new one, and 10 minute job for a novice to fit

Thanks for your help.

Where is the gaiter located? And what do I have to do to fix it?

 

[pompeyal]

Hi, Items 1 & 2 sound as if your break light switch sticks on, have a look at this, it is sighted on the peddle box, our man who replied about the emission problem sounds OK to start maybe otherwise it could be that it needs a good tune up, as for the gaiter it is situated behind the front wheel looking into the car and the drive shaft is attached. It can be a pain to replace as an amateur but should not cost much at a decent local garage. There is a quick fix if the gaiter has a clean split and that is to remove any grease on the mating faces and around locally and then bonding it with a good super glue

 

[foxhole]

Brake light switch can come loose as it just clips in , check before you replace.Letting brake pedal flick up is enough to dislodge it.

 

[iwaters]

As neo says start with a service and an "italian tune up". Can you post the acutal emissions results as often the problem can be suggested from the these.

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

Where is the gaiter located? And what do I have to do to fix it?

I would respectfully suggest that if you even need to ask the question you ought to leave this to a garage!

 

[Belle427]

i think he has probably already sorted it after 4 years!

 

[Crickleymal]

i think he has probably already sorted it after 4 years!

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

Gah!!!! foxhole that was your fault!

 

[Mikefromlondon]

with the cars, if the lambda sensor or often called oxygen sensor is going up the wall, it will not control fuel/air mixture correctly and run slightly rich, which in turn yield higher hydro carbon contents, co contents so you really need to look at getting a new lamda sensor if all else fails.

most MOT garages know that they have to test emissions when the engine has reached normal temperature, since if it hasn't then the CTS (engine coolant temperature sensor) would dictate ECU to inject more fuel to for cold starting ( like a choke) so prior to emissions testing the engine should reach normal temeperature.