Mould problem

ive seen it and dealt with numerous times over the years.have you or as usual your just reading up from the net and offering it as your own opinion?
 
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Yes I've dealt with it but I'm not a con artist. It it can only survive within a very narrow temperature and humidity band. The spores are in every house in the UK, but because the conditions are hostile to it, ity doesn't grow. It's probably the most difficult organism on the planet to grow - so it's ridiculously easy to get rid of. I bet you are in the damp proof industry. The industry where all cowboys end up.
 
Yes I've dealt with it but I'm not a con artist. It it can only survive within a very narrow temperature and humidity band. The spores are in every house in the UK, but because the conditions are hostile to it, ity doesn't grow. It's probably the most difficult organism on the planet to grow - so it's ridiculously easy to get rid of. I bet you are in the damp proof industry. The industry where all cowboys end up.

id take that bet m8,and you would very much LOSE, :D

as for being a cowboy,i resemble that remark :LOL:
unless your offering me a job,then i aint giving you my C.V.

i used to work in the industry AND agree there are a lot of bandits around.
a couple i worked for WERE on the money when it came to doing the jobs,EVERYTHING WAS ABOVE BOARD,even down to identifying certain types of rot which was sent away for analysis so the correct advice was always given.we used to phone up a very well known pharmaceutical company when we had large outbreaks of dry rot and they used to send someone out sharpish to get hold of the fruiting bodies.
in laboratory conditions they could grow the hyphe but couldnt get the fruiting bodies.
i personally think a lot of the advice has a double edged sword about it.
because once cuboidal cracking has occurred the strength of the timber has been compromised,and yet a lot of info(inc your self here)says introduce ventilation and leave well alone,thus negating the necessity to do large rip outs,WHAT about damage to wall plates joist ends etc.
and dont think your safe using pre treated timber either,ive seen it destroy this aswell.
like everything if the conditions are correct it will thrive,or it will just sit there doing sod all.
but im old school so i will always use my methods and training. ;)
 
Obviously if the damage has been done then the timber needs replacing but it's a very fragile organism. No need to send it to a fookin lab. Ventilate and replace the rot, job done. It's a mould - not a triffid.
 
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Obviously if the damage has been done then the timber needs replacing but it's a very fragile organism. No need to send it to a fookin lab. Ventilate and replace the rot, job done. It's a mould - not a triffid.

its a fungii,but lets not split hairs here.

reason why it got sent to a lab,
the answer is in your reply to me,your last sentence.

to make sure the information was correct and to ensure the appropriate course of action was carried out.
 
It's not hard to defeat. It's all lies from a crooked industry that peddles absolute bullsh*t.
 
It's not hard to defeat. It's all lies from a crooked industry that peddles absolute bullsh*t.

and if it is so easy to eradicate,why not email the national trust im sure there be chewing at the bit to listen to your pearls of wisdom.as its something that costs them a bloody fortune every year.
 
Those that run the national trust aren't spending their own money. Brown envelopes all around for imaginary work eh chaps? Nothing new under the sun. :rolleyes:
 
Interesting debate :LOL: Well , I`ve seen DR once - in a relatives house . The place was virtually derilict , but the old boy was happy to live that way :cry: You could see the tendrils had grown up under the plaster from the basement - done some damage to the first floor joists , and then found the backboard to the high level WC :LOL: The point is that because of the state of the place - this was visible AND it had stopped because he let us sort out the damp in the back yard , the cellar dried out and he never heated the place so it was constantly aired .
 
how much of the rotten timber did you have to remove to make it safe again?

when i 1st started out in that industry they used to burn off the strands with a blow torch.
wonder how many times dwellings were set on fire :rolleyes:
 
They say about 2 foot but when you ventilate, it really doesn't matter. Dry Rot can't live without high humidity.
 
:rolleyes: i already know that joe,and in the books it says 600mm in all(feasible directions)

the industry increased this to 1m.

probably to offer all those SUPER DUPER 25 year guarantees. ;)
 
It all depends on the severity, how long it's been established and the source of the moisture. Dry rot needs a certain environment to flourish. In simple cases, where the source is atmospheric moisture, usually caused by lack of ventilation, all you need do is remove the environment and that can be enough. Whether you have to cut out any timber at all depends on how well and how long established it is. But dry rot can also exploit free water sources as well and carry the moisture to where it needs it. In those cases you will have to stop the source as well. And that can be anything; dripping pipes or fittings, soaked walls due to gutters, sub-floor water, etc. A few years back I dealt with an outbreak due to a dripping fridge. Removed the fridge, cleaned up, checked the ventilation and it has never come back.
 

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