Well good luck tomorrow, and in my opinion the correct venting of air is one of the most important thing on an open vented system. See if you can get the vent rising vertically from a vertical flow with the cold feed teeing into the vertical vent 150mm above the tee off the flow pipe into the vent pipe itself. After the join of the flow and the vent the flow then tee's off the join and goes to the pump etc. Then almost all the air in the system is removed and there is no risk of pump over in the tank.
New Boiler too powerful??
- Thread starter mastersc
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Thanks, I don't understand what you really mean but I'll certainly ask.
You say Tee's and vents, l think this is the pipe you mean or at least part of it.
if not ignore me and I'll let you know tomorrow if I can get the plumber round.
You say Tee's and vents, l think this is the pipe you mean or at least part of it.
if not ignore me and I'll let you know tomorrow if I can get the plumber round.
I believe it is and it looks like the vent is the left hand one probably in 22mm and then a tee into another tee which takes it down to the pump with the cold feed 15mm prob coming down into the pump tee. If that is the case the pump is pulling down with a negative pressure(sucking) and that negative pressure is also appliued to the cold feed, as soon as the cold feed is pulled down the water level drops and the ball valve lets more water in, and a positive pressure can be applied to the vent pushing water up intro the tank. if the cold feed is cut from the tee and that blanked of then it can bee teed straight into the vent pipe. If that is done then the vent can even be fitted to the top of the tank on the side allowing a cover to be fitted with a near air tight fit. No fresh air in tank means water isn't oxygenated causing rust in the system.
OK will mention it, this is all pre-existing plumbing, so the old boiler ran on this system, so I don't know why this one doesn't when turned up at the higher temps. Anyway I'll wait until its re-wired(programmer etc) and see if it still happens then explore other avenues. I will be armed with your questions on the vent and the condense drain.
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The vent has always been a possible NOT definite but very possible problem, The steam was not over pumping it was just steam from water not circulating fast enough and over heating, air lock maybe? it can come and go and be difficult to trace it not a physical problem.
What a complete load of tosh !!
Tony, out of the top of the boiler, 2 pipes one marked F and the other R, so I guess Return and Flow, the Feed is the hottest, just read the commissioning book, Flow was 72degc and Return 56degC
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On the Ri series the pump must be wired from the boiler . The manufacturers' instructions make this very clear. Given that the pump-over problem did not occur on the old boiler the existing feed, expansion and bypass arrangements are hopefully correct.
I'm surprised the installers insisted on on the 24kW when experience had shown 18kW to be adequate. Oversizing is not advantageous.
There are a number of possible solutions to the condensate issue. An air-break is one.
For warrantee purposes WB are fussy about the system having been flushed adequately and the system being maintained with the correct concentration of inhibitor.
I'm surprised the installers insisted on on the 24kW when experience had shown 18kW to be adequate. Oversizing is not advantageous.
There are a number of possible solutions to the condensate issue. An air-break is one.
For warrantee purposes WB are fussy about the system having been flushed adequately and the system being maintained with the correct concentration of inhibitor.
I wanted to be sure the flow through the boiler was correct and it is.
Hot at top means a lack of flow. That would be a balancing issue. You will feel/measure the differential on that rad is too high. Ideally about 15 C.
Sludged up is cold in the bottom middle only with top and bth pipes warm.
Tony
Hot at top means a lack of flow. That would be a balancing issue. You will feel/measure the differential on that rad is too high. Ideally about 15 C.
Sludged up is cold in the bottom middle only with top and bth pipes warm.
Tony
Nice one. Rads have heat at the bottom just warmer at the top, will mention balancing. The highest rad in the ensuite is full, no air in that. Whats the typical time for a normal system to need to bleed? Just thinking if I have a small leak somewhere thats just letting in air rather than leaking out water.
I have talked to the plumber and I we both agree that get the wiring sorted first then take it further. I will look into flushing not sure my plumber does that or not, so any recommendations in the South Croydon area as maybe best for piece of mind?
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