new kitchen questions

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Avon
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L shaped kitchen approx 3.5m sq.
1. Worktop: Solid laminate or chipboard laminate. Solid is hard to cut from what I have read? Is DIY realistic. Butt joints seem to be recommended for solid?
Toying with cutting a curve at one end of the worktop, again is that realistic with solid laminate?
If using a solid laminate worktop, do you raise the cabinet legs by the difference in thickness 38mm-12.5mm = 25.5mm?
2. Sink mixer, the sink is stainless steel Franke. How well can they cope with a large mixer tap without deflection?
Or is an undermounted sink and the tap mounted on the worktop stronger?

3. Miele fridge but cannot be have a cabinet door on the fridge door according to Miele. Are there generic brackets to use to achieve this and is the fridge door drilled in so doing?
Ta
 
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My thoughts on cabinets have evolved:
>>Buy MFC units from Howdens or Magnet and fit.
>>Buy flat pack Birch ply units from one of two sellers on ebay.
>> Get a local joinery workshop to do the same.
>>Get a local timber merchant to cut the blanks from sheets of Birch ply and finish them myself. Need to buy door hinge hole cutter and maybe a dovetail jig? Not entirely sure of the dimensions of the units.

Any thought?
 
My thoughts on cabinets have evolved:
>>Buy MFC units from Howdens or Magnet and fit.
>>Buy flat pack Birch ply units from one of two sellers on ebay.
>> Get a local joinery workshop to do the same.
>>Get a local timber merchant to cut the blanks from sheets of Birch ply and finish them myself. Need to buy door hinge hole cutter and maybe a dovetail jig? Not entirely sure of the dimensions of the units.

Any thought?

Nice though birch ply is, mfc gives you a proper scratch resistant wipe clean surface.

Solid surface worktops like earthstone are a bit porous and can stain. Laminate on chipboard is the hardest wearing and is actually the most practical kitchen worktop available. Not suitable for underslung sinks of course.
 
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1. Worktop: Solid laminate or chipboard laminate. Solid is hard to cut from what I have read? Is DIY realistic. Butt joints seem to be recommended for solid?
Toying with cutting a curve at one end of the worktop, again is that realistic with solid laminate?
Laminate-covered chipboard is probably the cheapest, most versatile option there is.
If using a solid laminate worktop, do you raise the cabinet legs by the difference in thickn Solid laminate (such as Trespa) can be difficult to cut - needs a jig saw and metal blades to rough-out shapes(to within a few mm of finished size) and a router, guide bush, straight cutter and template to finish to size. Not beyond the whit of anyone with a bit of router experience, however, solid laminate can generate a lot of dust (so a good P3 dust mask and dust extraction are highly advisable) and it takes a bigger router (1/2in and minimum 1400watts I'd say). AFAIK butt joints are the only way to joint solid
 

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