new kitchen with only one wire for Oven + hob

[lolo]

Hey,

In the kitchen, they have a on/off siwtch dedicated to the Oven/Hob area, but only one wire coming from the wall. We bought 2 seperate (Bosch) oven and hob.

Can I just split the wire to connect the 2 appliances ? Do you think they put enough power in the wire to feed the 2? Any advices ?

 

[stem]

You should read the manufacturers instructions. They will tell you what supplies their equipment needs.

Usually the oven will have a 13A plug and can be plugged in (only if it's a single oven, double ovens take too much power)

The hob will likely use the direct connection. It may need a different rating on the supply, but the manufacturers instructions will state cable size and fuse/MCB rating

 

[Demonic]

To be certain, you need to know the rating of the two appliances, the cable size of your cooker circuit, what it is routed through and the size of the MCB that it is attached to.

Ordinarily, if you have a double oven then it will have too high a rating to be plugged into the ring main. Single ovens usually have lower ratings and can sometimes be plugged into the ring main. For a single oven, you are looking at something like a rating of 2.8kw maximum if you want to plug it into the ring main (2800/230 = 12.17).

I am in the process of having my kitchen redone and bought a double-oven and a hob. They are rated at 5.8kw and 6.8kw. That works out at 25A and 30A respectively at full load. I had a single cooker circuit wired in 6mm cable protected by a 40A MCB (which was too high really). Cable capacity is also greatly reduced in certain circumstances (running through insulation etc.).

Applying diversity (which is a calculation that takes into account the fact that you are unlikely to run both appliances at full load), I could have run the two off the single cooker circuit. However, if they ever hit full load then they would have tripped the MCB (or maybe burnt out the cable as the MCB was rated too high for the cable).

As a result, I have downrated the MCB in the existing circuit to 32A and will use that to connect the hob. I have had a separate circuit installed (in 6mm protected by a 32A RCD) to power the double oven.

 

[narkysparky]

Yes you can split it.Normally you would connect the cable(live,earth and neutral)to the oven and then link it to the hob.Open the back of the oven and make your connections L/live/brown,N/neutral/blue,Earth/GreenYellow.Then connect the same size cable to the hob from your oven.Make sure to follow instructions given with both the hob and the oven.You should also have a 32A mcb at your fuseboard for the cooker(hob/oven).Also make sure that electricity is turned off before commencing any of the above.

 

[stem]

Yes you can split it.Normally you would connect the cable(live,earth and neutral)to the oven and then link it to the hob.

Be careful, if the oven comes with 13A flex, it will need some additional protection and would be dangerous connected directly to a 30/32A supply.

 

[ColJack]

I would go to the hob first.. since it will be pulling the most amps and then takes out an extra connection to pass through..


you'd think they would have thought about these things and put a flex outlet in the hob for connecting the ovens...

likewise how about making a cooker switch with a built in fused switchd spur instead of a socket for connecting the oven and hob..

or a built in double pole switch / breaker...

 

[lolo]

Thanks fro the answer, this is a single fan oven from Bosch, I wish the builder would have put 2 cables instead of the single one. I find that the vendor web site is not great for technical information, and the documentation coming with both oven and hob fairly light. Thre is only a sticker on each with the schema of connector.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Yes but there should be a plate, either on the back or on the door, that states the power consumption. We need to know that info for both otherwise we its guesswork.

TTC

 

[Stevethetiler]

dunno if this helps but ive been informed i can use this device.....see pic.....fed from the top with load from cooker switch and then power to hob via 6mm hardwired.using the other outlet at the bottom, use 6mm short length to a socket to plug in 13a single oven.

http://www.alertelectrical.com/Wiri...asyfit-Dual-Appliance-Outlet-Plate-PRW217.asp

Am i right in assuming this would solve the problem?

 

[flameport]

Once again, an old posting from 2007 is dragged up

 

[Stevethetiler]

Sorry. Im a newbie to the site. Looking for practical solutions to my problems.

Should i not have posted?

 

[flameport]

The problem is - the original poster hasn't been back here since 2007, so no use to them. They either fitted the oven long ago, or died from hunger

 

[Stevethetiler]

Oops.

Trouble is, i saw the thread and thought hmmm....sounds like my problem.

I hope they know about takeaways....

How about me testing out my sceanrio with you as its pretty similar.

Got a hob fed via 45a switch located under the worktop...the oven is plug and play 13a. I want to control the two from an isolator above the worktop.

Been told i can use one of those devices i listed and take 6mm from 2nd out to a socket via 6mm to allow me to plug in my 13a cooker.

This in principal sounded good to me but i wondered how safe/legal it is?

 

[ericmark]

Although switch rated 45A unlikely the MCB/Fuse is that big if only 6mm cable.
It is normal either to use a socket or a fused connection unit to reduce the maximum the oven can draw to 13A
And hob goes direct.
As long as right Fuse/MCB has been fitted worse case scenario should be fuse or MCB opens.
But you are relying on the correct size MCB being fitted. Normal for 6mm cable is 32A.
But cable does not have a single amp rating and so this may not be the case with your set-up. This I will guess is why it comes under Part P so it can be checked by someone qualified. You ask about legal the work needs a completion certificate which means either you pay council £100 + vat or you use a registered electrician in England and Wales.

I have written to our MP to complain and he is looking into it maybe you would also like to drop him an email?

 

[Stevethetiler]

My set up is that i have a grey box above my CU with 45a fuse. one dolly for on/off.

Im assuming that this is a radial circuit to my cokker area as no return to CU.

This goes direct to the hob.

Never had a problem with trips etc with current set up. Just looking for the best way to be able to isolate both cooker and hob from the existing 6mm cooker/hob circuit.

This seemed like the best way to do it.

Oh and yeah, been in touch woth the council....and sparks...230 for buildings to certify and well, over a £1000 with the work the spark wants to do........