new radiator

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I would like to fit a new radiator into my conservitory, would there be any problems if I "T" off from an existing rad. (which is through the wall in the kitchen)
 
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Is your boiler got the Kw to cope? How big is the conservatory? How big of a rad?

My advice would be to use an oil filled heater instead, the heat loss from a conservatory is huge.
 
The pipe size could be a problem. The most you're going to get from 15mm pipe is under 5 kW, depending on a few things. You'll get enough to take the chill off an autumn evening, but as above, trying to heat a conservatory in winter is a lost cause!

As rough guide, a 500 high x 1200 long single convector rad is about 1 kW.
 
lothe as I am to recommend electric heaters the conservatory is the one room I do normally so you can take the chill off in winter and run as a cool air fan in summer.
 
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Gas2Air said:
Is your boiler got the Kw to cope? How big is the conservatory? How big of a rad?

My advice would be to use an oil filled heater instead, the heat loss from a conservatory is huge.

boiler can cope (100,000btu's) so, going to fit a suitable rad----do I have to drain down the system or should I use one of these freezing kits (don't know of anybody that has used one, so unknown territory there)
 
No problem freezing if there is room to fit jackets, make sure heating and pump are off, or it wont freeze, I always fit inline isolation valves straight away so I can work at leisure and not worry about thawing.
 
inline isolation valves should NEVER be used on heating flow & returns,
the small bore will restrict the flow of water too much,
and also act as a sludge build up point,
my advice is to break into the 22mm flow and returns(heating side) upstairs, drill through to new room and feed 10mm microbore down wall in conservatory. then once up and running turn down lockshield valves on hottest rads to boost new heater.....
 
1 never heard of full flow valves ?

2 if an inline isolator is a flow restriction whats 10mm tube ?

you wont get the flowrate to heat the rad :rolleyes: [/quote]
 
Well I've certailny learnt some new things today, (haven't I?)

inline isolation valves should NEVER be used on heating flow & returns,

As kevplumb says full bore valves are handy, ......

the small bore will restrict the flow of water too much,

.........and have you ever looked at the restriction through radiator valves, let alone thermostatic radiator valves?

and also act as a sludge build up point,

sludge usually builds up in low flow places, like the middle of radiators and boiler heat exchangers in my experience, not nice turbulent places like valves.

feed 10mm microbore down wall

...Now there's a way of causing long term difficulties.

turn down lockshield valves on hottest rads to boost new heater.....

seems to have lost the advantage here.
 
Jeeeeeeeeezzzzzzzz, what sludge, if the system is crapped up then it's onto a loser anyway, clean system and then inhibitor on properly installed system no sludge problems, of course if the isolation valve is fitted vertically no sludge if any can get trapped can it :)
 
EH>>>MMMMMMMMM
he never said full bore....

10mm microbore from 22mm f&r gives fast heat up to new rad...

turning down lockshield on hottest rads! in other words balance...DERRRRR!!!!!!!
 

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