New system recommended

Other stuff. Worcester/Bosch are very complex internally. Most combi boilers are- diverter valves, lots of gubbins. You say quote is for boiler in different location- do not even think about having a boiler in a bedroom or sitting room or other living space- yes they're quiet but not silent, you will notice the noises.
Installers- local knowledge is key. Forget BG. Ask around your neighbours', see if any of them have good/bad plumber or heating engineer experiences. £4k for 7 rads and a combi and all the pipework sounds feasible up here in the frozen North, maybe not in the expensive South
 
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Other stuff. Worcester/Bosch are very complex internally. Most combi boilers are- diverter valves, lots of gubbins. You say quote is for boiler in different location- do not even think about having a boiler in a bedroom or sitting room or other living space- yes they're quiet but not silent, you will notice the noises.
Installers- local knowledge is key. Forget BG. Ask around your neighbours', see if any of them have good/bad plumber or heating engineer experiences. £4k for 7 rads and a combi and all the pipework sounds feasible up here in the frozen North, maybe not in the expensive South
 
EDIT: cooling down now, I get that it’s a skilled job and overhead cost but man, these things cripple you financially but at the end of the day, I bought the house. I didn’t check the plumbing. I don’t have the skills or the time to learn them. Its just a LOT of money.

As a home owner, car owner and etc. for many decades, my philosophy has always been one of of constantly studying each subject in considerable depth. Understanding, means you can tackle many/most/all of the repairs needed myself and best of all - my understanding means I can make my property last a very long time. I have looked after my heating system almost exclusively since it was installed some 40 years ago. I have not relied upon anyone but me, to ensure the inhibitor is up to spec. and adequate, with the result that my system is perfectly clean.

Likewise with my cars - only I generally do any work on them. I had some completely inadequate done by a garage a couple of weeks ago, following my inspection of the work - it goes back to them for them to make a second attempt to do the work properly.
 
if I move the boiler and change the rads, is there a chance we can retain some
Of the pipework to at least save some costs? He seemed to think not worth it and just go for the whole new system if I was going that far

Changing boiler location and type of boiler, means that a considerable amount of the old pipework will be redundant. Of the rest, new radiators will need adaption to the old pipe centres, so really the easiest, neatest fix is all new pipes, but allowing old pipes to be used where is suits the layout, if they are clean.
 
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As a home owner, car owner and etc. for many decades, my philosophy has always been one of of constantly studying each subject in considerable depth. Understanding, means you can tackle many/most/all of the repairs needed myself and best of all - my understanding means I can make my property last a very long time. I have looked after my heating system almost exclusively since it was installed some 40 years ago. I have not relied upon anyone but me, to ensure the inhibitor is up to spec. and adequate, with the result that my system is perfectly clean.

Likewise with my cars - only I generally do any work on them. I had some completely inadequate done by a garage a couple of weeks ago, following my inspection of the work - it goes back to them for them to make a second attempt to do the work properly.

Surely installing a boiler and pipework is really pro work? I wouldn’t attempt that as a DIY, I’m sure I can’t legally do it either.

the baxi back boiler was always going to have to change. I just don’t have the time with a family/career to learn in that detail.

I also just have what’s left of the summer to get everything booked in so gonna have to do this with professionals. However, when it’s installed I will get to know the system I have so I can do basic maintenance and care
 
I also just have what’s left of the summer to get everything booked in so gonna have to do this with professionals. However, when it’s installed I will get to know the system I have so I can do basic maintenance and care

That is as much as you can do, but studying the basics and having some level of understanding, does put you in a position of power.
 
Accidentally drained my heating system. This caused an air lock which is now fixed and it’s working again.

the water escape was a putrid brown and I did wonder how healthy it looked.

I have:

baxi condensing boiler
Hot water tank in airing cupboard
Cold water and hot water tank in loft (open system apparently, has a stop cock thing)

I am currently fitting flooring hence the rads coming off.

plumber said:

the rads are prob 35 years old
The system is on its last legs
He wouldn’t attempt a power flush as the rads are so old and full of gunk it isn’t suitable.

essentially he recommended an entire new system.

Said that changing the rads MIGHT work but there may be other cr@p in the system. It may be in the pipes or the boiler itself.

so he said as a cheaper option he could: change the rads. Change to a closed system (not with the open tank in the loft - not sure what that means) and try to flush the pipes downstairs by putting something between the rad pipes.

the issue is, the boiler works. Have hot water back. The system isn’t that powerful…but we can survive on it.

I am about to lay the floor downstairs.
with the advice for a totally new install I’m wondering do I just bite the bullet and get a whole new system, pipes and all?

Or is this the kind of thing plumbers try to recommend. He seems a decent fellow but I know well from my own industry that this is a business.

But overawed by these costs. Any advice appreciated.

I don’t mind a new boiler or new rads - it’s the total re plumb of the pipes which I thought was unnecessary. Surely if you have new rads and a boiler you can just flush the pipes?
If you want to keep costs down I would drain down, then take off the rads one at a time, take out into the yard and flush them with a hose. Then refill the system and drain again a couple of times to get most of the muck out of the pipes. Then turn off the gas valve so the boiler doesn't fire, and call for HW, to run the pump. Switch off and drain again. Then refill adding inhibitor. If you do get any rad leaks they won't all do it at once and you'll need to replace as and when, but not particularly likely IMO.
Now's the time of year to do it!
 
If you want to keep costs down I would drain down, then take off the rads one at a time, take out into the yard and flush them with a hose. Then refill the system and drain again a couple of times to get most of the muck out of the pipes. Then turn off the gas valve so the boiler doesn't fire, and call for HW, to run the pump. Switch off and drain again. Then refill adding inhibitor. If you do get any rad leaks they won't all do it at once and you'll need to replace as and when, but not particularly likely IMO.
Now's the time of year to do it!

to be fair mate I am probably getting a loan and getting a new install.

We are stuck with a baxi and electric fire front we don’t want so might just be prudent to get a new system done.

The system doesn’t work well and the rads are 35+ years old and it never gets above 20 degrees on a cold day.
 
For basic plumbing skills YouTube is good,

Piping a system is relatively easy, you will want as few tight bends as possible, if you can have long radius bends they are best to keep the flow of water.

Ideally you would have 2x 22mm pipes running through the centre of the house and the rads then 'teed' off from the 22mm pipe, and the same with the return.

Run them to close where the new boiler will be situated.

Where the pipes go to the rads, ideally you'd install the rad first and then pipe to the rad.
 
For basic plumbing skills YouTube is good,

Piping a system is relatively easy, you will want as few tight bends as possible, if you can have long radius bends they are best to keep the flow of water.

Ideally you would have 2x 22mm pipes running through the centre of the house and the rads then 'teed' off from the 22mm pipe, and the same with the return.

Run them to close where the new boiler will be situated.

Where the pipes go to the rads, ideally you'd install the rad first and then pipe to the rad.

i think this is a step too far for me mate. Flooring yes, basic stuff like taking out and plastering/boarding fireplaces - yes. Fitting sinks and toilets. Yes. Sockets, yes.

plumbing in a new system, think I will let the pros do this. I have a kid running round here too, bit too much!

I suppose I could have a go at putting the pipes in, but I would need to spend hours and hours learning it.
 
i think this is a step too far for me mate. Flooring yes, basic stuff like taking out and plastering/boarding fireplaces - yes. Fitting sinks and toilets. Yes. Sockets, yes.

plumbing in a new system, think I will let the pros do this. I have a kid running round here too, bit too much!

I suppose I could have a go at putting the pipes in, but I would need to spend hours and hours learning it.
Whoever does it, make sure the layout is correct - all the CH returns commoned before the HW cylinder return joins. The issue has been discussed a few times on this forum.
 
Whoever does it, make sure the layout is correct - all the CH returns commoned before the HW cylinder return joins. The issue has been discussed a few times on this forum.

I wouldn’t have a cylinder with a combi would I?
 

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