new water mains to new extension

[martysmarty]

Yes, that sounds right to me.

The best thing to cut the Lead with is a normal cutter for plastic pipe, give it a good scrub first with a Brillo pad or similar and then cut and join it.

There are loads of fittings to go MDPE to Lead but my favourite are the Plasson Plass4’s like this:

https://store.jdpipes.co.uk/plasson-plass4-universal-coupling/

Ian your a star, thanks!

 

[martysmarty]

Ian, just to confirm. When you say a pipe cutter for plastic, are you saying yo use the plastic housed ones because it wont score the lead? Iv got a set of the red rothernberg plastic pipe cutters.

 

[Ian H]

Ian, just to confirm. When you say a pipe cutter for plastic, are you saying yo use the plastic housed ones because it wont score the lead? Iv got a set of the red rothernberg plastic pipe cutters.

A pair of these:

 

[martysmarty]

Mate, if you hadnt of posted that picture i would of said are you taking the ****

Cant brelieve they cut that. Il add them to the list

 

[Ian H]

That’s not metal, it’s fibre optic stuff

They will cut Lead but not steel or copper

 

[martysmarty]

I did wonder i thought it was some sort of bonding cable

 

[martysmarty]

Pulled this from the south staffs website.

"7. Pipes must be laid in a continuous duct and insulated where they pass through the foundations, are buried under buildings or are installed under suspended floors (e.g. block and beam). Contact the Water Regulations Team for insulation information. In general, ducts should extend from the outside face of the point of entry to the building right up to the point where the pipe enters the room containing the internal stop tap. The duct should then be sealed at both ends to prevent the ingress of contaminants. The minimum recommended duct diameter for a 25mm pipe is 100mm although a duct with as large a radius as possible should be used where the pipe changes direction"


I just want to check i am thinking the right thing here, it stats if it passes underground or through a foundation, then it needs to be insulated?

Rigid blue 110mm ducting is expensive, and wont be able to radius it up out the ground. It will be a 6m run through foundation, under the slab to the other side where i need to bring it up out the base.

I think, 110mm drainage pipe with a 87 degree bend, rubber bungs either end (seen these on here) . Maybe wrap it in blue water warning tape so it cant be mistaken for a waste pipe?

South staffs cover our water so i have got to go off what they say.

Grabbing materials tomorrow if we go the 110mm drainage route

 

[Ian H]

That’s what I’d use. Older ones are in real small ducting, 40mm or something.

 

[martysmarty]

That’s what I’d use. Older ones are in real small ducting, 40mm or something.

Ian, what you think regards insulation? Really needed? Sounds a little OTT, the lead was only 400mm down! At least id be at 750+

 

[cdbe]

You don't need insulation if the pipe is 750mm under soil, you do need insulation if it's 750 (or whatever) in ducting under a suspended floor (cos it's "on the surface"). It's because historically the ground never freezes below 750mm. My inspection guys have always been happy with 25mm of the rubbery (rather than the foamy) insulation and the cheap plastic blanking plates on the ends of the 110 pipes.

Like you my old lead was only 300mm underground for the past 80 years and my copper and brass outside tap has been outside for the past 7 years. But those are the "rules".

 

[martysmarty]

Great help mate cheers. Exactly what i had in mind. And now makes sense i hadnt thought of a suspender floor. I suppose because they are vented.


Nice one!

 

[Ian H]

I’d only insulate from where you bend it up, can’t imagine it needs it but it would keep the 2 pipes from rubbing on each other.