no ignition on camray 5 boiler

[RKA]

The Riello RDB1 oil burner has suddenly stopped igniting. I've checked the electrode gap and distance from the nozzle, cleaned the electrode contacts, checked that the ceramic body is not cracked. The burner starts up but no audible spark is heard after 12 seconds so the motor just continues ad infinitum without igniting. Any ideas?

 

[oilman]

50V output from motor missing, photocell, pump coil.

 

[OilLecky]

Its as Oilman says. According to some notes that I have, if the photo-cell sees "false light" or the fuel solenoid resistance is incorrect or the 50volts that the motor / generator supplies to power the Control Box is missing then the motor will run forever.

1. Get a multimeter and check for 50volts ac between the white and black cable of the Control Box. If no voltage check the wiring / renew the motor.

2. Set the multimeter to Ohms and, with the photo-cell in darkness, measure the resistance.It should be greater than 500kOhms. Now shine a torch at the end of the photo-cell and the resistance should change to 1kOhm to 40kOhm.
If open circuit or the resistance does not change, check the wiring / renew the photo-cell.

3. Measure the Fuel solenoid resistance. It should be approx 100 ohms. If open circuit or high resistance. Check the wiring / renew the fuel solenoid.

 

[RKA]

Thanks very much for your helpful replies. It turned out to be the photo cell although it was apparently clean to look at.

I do have two further questions -

1. On one of the removable plates in the Camray 5 boiler's "treacherous path" the heat resistant material (which looks like asbestos) has disintegrated and has been removed with the soot residue when I cleaned out the boiler. How important is it to replace this re the effeciency or safety of the boiler?

2. Not having specialist equipment, I've set the air shutter by rotating back about 1 1/2 turns of the allen key from the point when visible smoke emits from the flue. I notice that if I take off the flexible hose from the RDB1 flue so it's sucking pure air from my entrance porch, then the burner needs less air from the air shutter adjustment. Do you have any preferred DIY method of setting the air adjustment for maximum effeciency?

 

[oilman]

1. On one of the removable plates in the Camray 5 boiler's "treacherous path" the heat resistant material (which looks like asbestos) has disintegrated and has been removed with the soot residue when I cleaned out the boiler. How important is it to replace this re the effeciency or safety of the boiler?

It will affect efficiency if much has fallen off.

2. Not having specialist equipment, I've set the air shutter by rotating back about 1 1/2 turns of the allen key from the point when visible smoke emits from the flue. I notice that if I take off the flexible hose from the RDB1 flue so it's sucking pure air from my entrance porch, then the burner needs less air from the air shutter adjustment. Do you have any preferred DIY method of setting the air adjustment for maximum effeciency?

You need a smoke pump at least. Only £70 ish. If it smokes at all, it will gradually build up until you have a two hour cleaning job.

 

[OilLecky]

I agree with oilman (it's always best to... 'cos he's right!!). You could get by with a smoke pump but with oil the price it is I suggest getting someone with the full Oil pressure and Flue Gas analysis kit. The problem is that you just want them to set the fuel / air and not do a full service, which it sounds like you have already done some of. You need to find a friendly boiler man.
(I'd increase the air flow a bit more. A certain amount of smoke is often present when the air is set way, way off of actual visible smoke. Visible smoke is wasted oil i.e. money. Increase the air some more...if you put too much in the burner produces quite a bit of Carbon Monoxide..which is bad. Much too much air causes unreliable lighting. If you have a low level flue terminal you could try holding some white cloth near it too see if it darkens with soot. It's a bit hit and miss without the correct gear.)

 

[oilman]

You could try smelling the exhaust. Too little air will give an oily smell, too much air will give an acrid smell. If it's running right, there will be very little smell. This needs to be done when the boiler hot.

 

[RKA]

Thanks very much for all the advice guys. I'll climb up onto my bungalow porch roof and sniff the flue whilst my wife twists the allen key !

Anyway I'm back in business and it was well worth joining the forum.

All the best - Richard Anscombe.

 

[Agile]

You could try smelling the exhaust. Too little air will give an oily smell, too much air will give an acrid smell. If it's running right, there will be very little smell. This needs to be done when the boiler hot.

And too much smelling will probably make you pass out!

In the "old days" on my two Potty Dips, I used to set the air to give a blue flame with a slight orange tinge to the flame tips.

Is doing this too far out today?

Tony

 

[oilman]

In the "old days" on my two Potty Dips, I used to set the air to give a blue flame with a slight orange tinge to the flame tips.

Is doing this too far out today?

Tony

So far I have resisted commenting as you are a competent poster with much useful advice on plumbing and particularly, gas. Please stick to gas, and I'll stick to oil.

The flame for oil pressure jet burners is YELLOW. To get a blue flame would need a different fuel, or excessive air, or as I think you might be thinking of, vapourising burners. There is also the problem of seeing the flame. There are few modern oil boilers with sight glasses, and if they put one in the access panel, the flame can't be seen because of the tortuous path through the baffles.

 

[MWH]

Hi,
I have exactly the same problem as RKA on a camray 5. The motor runs but no ignition. occasionally you can hear a spark but again no ignition.
I have checked the motor output, photo cell and solenoid, all normal. Any ideas gratefully received, Thanks