No Lintel over window. Crack abound.

[rizla01]

Hi,

Could someone please advise me.

I recently purchased a property that is in need of some work.

I am about to fit a new kitchen but the kitchen window is in need of some TLC based on the fact that there are cracks in the brickwork and what appears to be a couple of bits of old wood inside, holding up the inside wall. I intend to drop the window a couple of courses whilst I am sorting it out as the cill is a bit too high.

I note elsewhere around the house that all the other windows have a soldier course above so I would also like to do the same here.

My thinking is that a catnic lintel which will span the outside AND inside would be the correct course of action here. Would you agree?

My plan is to knock out the two badly matched (And badly fitted) bricks (which were very likely put in place to fill the hole left when the Ventaxia was removed) and slide a 5' bit of 8x2 hardwood in and support that with an accro outside & in.

Then remove the window, take out the two courses below and then install the window. Then place the lintel above (with around 150mm either side) and build the soldier course on top of that. Then lay the courses above and then repoint the gaps.

My thinking is that a catnic lintel which will span the outside AND inside would be the correct course of action here. Would you agree?

If so, will weep vents be required above. The place is rockwool insulated. If so how far apart and would a couple of holes in the mortar be sufficient?

Another thought is that I should pemove the mortar from the cracks FIRST and repoint then and THEN fit the window.

Which would be correct?

Window is 1350 x 950.


I included the last photo to show the bad join in the brickwork where the house was extended. (Originally a chalet)

 

[pinenot]

Gosh, where to start. Well first you need to hack all the plaster form the internal reveals and expose the brickwork with all it's faults. Then you should look again at that kitchen window head, those two bits of timber appear to be packers i.e. not structural.
But my first impression is, unless the plastic window is supporting the sq/brick arch above it (unlikely) there could be a metal lintel in there now, often a 50 x 50 mm was employed. But the inserted packers could be replacing something important, get the plaster off and let's have a look.
When you say lowering the window I'm presuming by the way you describe, that you will reuse the existing window?

Your proposed Catnic lintel idea! no problem with the lintel, but have you considered the proposed method of work yet? removing the soldier course will require propping, remember the upper floors are supported by whatever the current arrangement is!

As an aside you will also have to look at that flashing/upstand to the flat roof, wind blown water can enter there...pinenot

 

[rizla01]

but have you considered the proposed method of work yet? removing the soldier course will require propping, remember the upper floors are supported by whatever the current arrangement is!

and slide a 5' bit of 8x2 hardwood in and support that with an accro outside & in.

Then remove the window, take out the two courses below and then install the window. Then place the lintel above (with around 150mm either side) and build the soldier course on top of that. Then lay the courses above and then repoint the gaps.

I thought that would support the brickwork sufficiently enough. Are you saying it wont?


Those four bricks on top of the window are held in place only by the silicon seal above. There appears to be nothing else holding the bricks up on the outside wall although there is a soldier course arch inside.

See new pics.

 

[pinenot]

The final pic in your first post, combined with these latest pics, show a horror story waiting to unfold in my opinion.
I would seriously get a report from a SE on that wall (especially if the last ones showing the crack in the bricks are of the same elevation) I say this because if you look at the highlighted pic below -

View media item 58745
What your looking at is a badly done rebuild of a partial wall, and the X marked cracks are almost matching with those shown on the internal pics.

I would not like to be within the vicinity when that window comes out unless that wall was fully braced, I'm sorry...pinenot

 

[TheVictorian]

I'd almost be tempted to put a few heli bars in a few courses above the window just to give it a little support before I started doing anything around the window.

 

[tony1851]

there could be a metal lintel in there now, often a 50 x 50 mm was employed.

???

 

[tony1851]

rizla; do the floor joists above run on to the wall above the window, or parallel to it?

 

[rjm2k]

Great example of how the load is spread in a triangular pattern above the window (not great for OP though )

 

[WabbitPoo]

[understatement]

Hi,


I recently purchased a property that is in need of some work.

[/understatement]

 

[joe-90]

Looks like a cheapo auction buy. You expect to spend a bit to get it right. Most of that just looks like thermal movement to me. No big deal.

 

[rizla01]

Fortunately the wall isn't load bearing, Tony.

Re heli bars. - I had considered that approach (Using resin??) but was hoping to just get away with chiseling out the mortar and replacing with a 3-1 mix for strength, 3-4 days before propping up as I didn't want to further 'crack' the brickwork.

Before the extension was added many years ago, this wall was under the tiles of a very high roofed chalet but now only has the flat roof joists sitting on it. (As well as just 2 ton of bricks )

Hear what you are saying Pinenot. It has been like this for many years tho. I am inclined to think that once I get my bit of 8x2 in there and firmly propped up there wont be a problem Esp, once the lintel is in place.

 

[rizla01]

Studying the problem with all the suggestions made in mind, I am inclined to agree, that as it is a South facing wall in full sun (Usually) that it is in fact just thermal movement along with a bad window install.

My intention is still to chock up the wall and drop the window. Put in a new lintel and brick up (with matching soldier course).

My dilemmas are as follows.

1) Should I chip out the old mortar where it is cracked and repair FIRST or afterwards?

2) If it is thermal expansion, would putting a pair of Heli- bars in. cause the problem to simply erupt elsewhere?

 

[rizla01]

Anyone?

 

[tony1851]

1) do the repair to the mortar after the window is done.

2) the cracks in the mortar are unlikely to be due to thermal movement as the coefficint of thermal expansion of brickwork is relatively low. The cracking will most likely be normal shrinkage of the mortar or, less-likely - hopefully - slight settlement.

 

[rizla01]

Hi Tony.

Thanks for that.

also, is there a way of telling when the accrows are wound up enough?

Or just as tight as I can by hand?