Old design honeywell 2 port valve

[JoeA]

I think I have a problem with my honeywell 2 port valve. It needs to open in order for hot water to enter the hot water tank.

The valve itself seems to be OK, so I'm hoping I might be able to replace just the head with the motor and microswitch.

However after viewing so YouTube videos it seems to be an old design.

Looking at the way the screws holding the head onto the valve go through the plate, I'm worried that undoing them will unleash a cascade of water.

Also having taken the motor off, when I manually rotate the valve, the brass bit doesn't come close to touching the microswitch... How is this meant to work? It was working yesterday, and I can't see any broken bits floating around? (see pic with motor removed).

See pics attached. Any help appreciated!

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Removing the head/ the actuator should not release any water. It looks as if you need to release 4 screws, then it should just lift off, as is normal for these valves. Spindle seems to be a D shape, again as is normal, allowing it to lift off. The D should be almost turnable with just your bare fingers.

The mechanism looks very lacking in lubrication, it might be worth adding some light oil to the moving parts, but avoid the electrical parts.

 

[Hairymelon]

If you remove the 4 screws Water will gush out. It is not a removable head type. Just replace the motor

 

[JoeA]

If you remove the 4 screws Water will gush out. It is not a removable head type. Just replace the motor

Phew I'm glad I know for sure now.

But with this being an old design, will I be able buy a replacement motor that fits correctly?

Also when you manually open the valve, it this meant to also operate the microswitch? Or is that only able to be operated when the motor rotates the mechanism?

Many thanks!

 

[Hairymelon]

Yes and no and yes

 

[picasso]

You need a conversion kit and a new actuator, you will also need to drain down to at least the height of the valve.

https://www.heatingcontrolsonline.co.uk/honeywell-40003918006-conversion-kit-p-288.html

 

[JoeA]

You need a conversion kit and a new actuator, you will also need to drain down to at least the height of the valve.

https://www.heatingcontrolsonline.co.uk/honeywell-40003918006-conversion-kit-p-288.html

It's pre 1986!!

Ah, I was afraid if that. I haven't got the confidence to unleash the wet stuff, so might need to get someone in...

Thanks.

 

[JoeA]

Actually thinking about it, if the whole thing is 35+ years old, instead of messing around with conversation kits, wouldn't it just make more sense to replace the whole thing. If the system needs to be drained down anyway, I might as well.. Right?

 

[picasso]

Depends on how easy it is to remove old valve, I have had them tucked behind cylinders and under floors where the conversion kit was a lot easier to use than trying to remove a complete valve body.

 

[JoeA]

Depends on how easy it is to remove old valve, I have had them tucked behind cylinders and under floors where the conversion kit was a lot easier to use than trying to remove a complete valve body.

Ah right of course. Luckily mine is right at the front with lots of space around it so hopefully should be straight forward. Thanks again.

 

[picasso]

I would use the conversion kit on that as its not a standard valve, its got threaded connections so you would need to cut the pipework and replace a length of pipe or special order the same type of valve.

 

[JoeA]

I would use the conversion kit on that as its not a standard valve, its got threaded connections so you would need to cut the pipework and replace a length of pipe or special order the same type of valve.

Thanks for the advice... Nothing is ever simple is it.

 

[picasso]

Nope

 

[JoeA]

Just in case anyone finds this thread in the future, I took a closer look at the synchron motor on top of the valve and realised it was exactly the same as the motors you can buy off the shelf.

I picked up a new "drayton" one from screwfix for £20 and I now have a working valve! The motor is identical to the old one as far as can tell. Both say "SYNCHRON - Made in USA" on the top.

 

[oilhead]

Job Done!!!!!