One coat gloss or not?

[Jpaul]

I have been trying to use one coat gloss on all of our woodwork but its like tar. The one door ive done has big globs of it in patches that I found impossible to brush out. Should I get a normal gloss instead, and also I have lightly sanded the existing gloss to prime it, is that correct?

 

[Bosswhite]

One coat Gloss is not real paint its a DIY paint.

Rub down, fill make good, apply one (Primer) undercoat, one/two gloss finish for a more professional job.

Being a bit of a dinosaur I use a Paint Brush rather than rollers.

 

[pete50]

Agree that one coat gloss is rubbish. I also cannot get on with these water based paints either. I have done a bit of boat painting in my time, non-pro, and the oil based paints you buy for that go on much much smoother at least on a the steel boat. But in places like B&Q, Homebase etc I seem to be only able to find water based paints.

 

[Robbie uk]

To be fair more and more manafacturers are slowing getting rid of oil based paints. You wont be able to get any soon. You need to start trying to get along with water based paints. They have come on leaps and bounds over the last couple of years. Ive been painting 39 years and am practically all water based now.

 

[Doggit]

If the one coat stuff is non drip, then if you mix it well with a drill and a power paint mixer, then you'll break the adhesion, and can then use it as a normal paint. I'm happy using a foam roller on door and large surfaces, then wrapping it in foil, then you can quickly go back to it on the next coat, but whilst that trick works well on oil based paints, I haven't tried it on the new water ones yet.

 

[opps]

To be fair more and more manafacturers are slowing getting rid of oil based paints. You wont be able to get any soon. You need to start trying to get along with water based paints. They have come on leaps and bounds over the last couple of years. Ive been painting 39 years and am practically all water based now.

I doff my cap to you.

I hate waterbased paints. They drive me up the wall.

I recently got called back to a job that I had originally painted to a high standard using Dulux Trade oil based eggshell. It had subsequently been repainted, 18 months ago, with Crown water based eggshell.

I only noticed that it was WB when I ran my fingernail down a door frame and it peeled off. I had to use plastic scrapers to scrape the water based eggshell off without damaging the oil based eggshell underneath it.

I did find a waterbased paint that I thought that I liked (Eico). With a bit of Floetrol it flowed nicely and I was pleased that I could sand out any tramlines between coats. I had to use oil based undercoat though, otherwise the old yellowed white paint underneath would show through once the WB had dried.

That job went well but required me to apply more coats than I would have if using OB exclusively.

Half a year later, I used the same paint and same OB undercoat. Pretty much everywhere that the paint gets touched by hand, it has become soft and peeled off. I can only assume that is a direct result of the fact that the occupant uses cocoa butter on their hands. Oils seem to soften WB paints. I have seen factory sprayed kitchen units with the same problems, the acid cat primer however is fine.

On another job I used Johnstones WB eggshell. It was horrible to work with and the client complained about the fact that keys and coins left black marks on the surfaces. I reminded him that he had specified the paint.

I want to like WB paints but I don't.

Non-yellowing is a big plus but with some of them, you still need to wait until the next day to recoat and they tend to ruin my brushes even though I mist them throughout the working day. The need to apply more coats hurts my pockets...

And don't get me started on Dulux trade Weathershield primer. The pre 2010 VOC complaint solvent based stuff was great. You could paint it on and then apply a coat of UC within 4 hours (or after 16). Now they want you to apply two coats of their WB primer and then wait 16 hours, AND you have to sand the stuff. I can only imagine that they used the primer as a bargaining chip to allow them to increase the solvent levels in the UC and gloss (thereby allowing the 3 part paint system to fall within the required VOC levels).

I can't see trade paints becoming exclusively WB any time soon. I can see retail paints becoming totally WB though.

Sorry about the rant. In the main I agree with your replies and sage advice, but in this case, I will have to respectfully disagree.

No offence intended.

 

[Robbie uk]

I hear what your saying Opps. I use an adhesion primer first in most cases. Good preparation is key to getting a good finish as you know. There are many WB paints out there and most are crap and aimed at the retail/Diy market. If things are done right then a decent water based gloss or satin should pass the scratch test.
Also decent synthetic brushes have to be used.
The down side is that water based gloss still cant match the shine of oil based gloss, even the best ones, some are getting close to be honest. Benjamin Moores is probably one of the best water based paints on the market at the moment. Supplied by Shaw paints of Slough.

 

[Doggit]

A rant it may have been opps, but forgivable for being so informative.