Oven and hob both require 13amp spur

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Hi Guys,

I have 2.9kw single oven on 13amp hard-wire, spurred from cooker outlet.
I'm looking to purchase induction hob which also requires 13amp hard-wire...is this possible, how many 13amp hard-wire spurs can you take from cooker outlet (rhetorical).

Am i restricted to selecting hob with 32amp hard wire?

as i understand it, ovens and hobs need to remain on the dedicated cooker circuit, seperate from ring main...or is this incorrect?

advice welcome before making wrong purchase.

Regards,
Dominic
 
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If you have a cooker circuit that has cable size for 32A supply. Then you will be fine to install a second FCU or a double outlet plate.

But I would have thought most induction hobs would exceed 13A?
 
If you have a cooker circuit that has cable size for 32A supply. Then you will be fine to install a second FCU or a double outlet plate.

But I would have thought most induction hobs would exceed 13A?


Cooker circuit is 10mm and 40 amp protected. okay, so i can provide second FCU from outlet, attached picture of current sockets.

that's what i thought but, this hob regulates itself so consumption does not exceed 3000w draw:

http://www.diy.com/departments/cook...-ceramic-electric-induction-hob/194580_BQ.prd

Just checked manual and, am i correct that this can also be connected direct to cooker outlet, page 22 states 'Mains Supply could be connected to the Mains Voltage by Direct Connection'.
confusing when then show 13amp FCU.
 

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The regulations allow for more than one connections at the cooker outlet plate, so is feasible that an oven and a hob can be connected at the same plate using a dual outlet. This is not uncommon.

Rule of thumb is a cooker circuit with 6mm cable (providing no correction factors/deratings) witha 32A breaker can supply up to 15kW.

You have 10mm cable with a 40A breaker. Your demand is much lower than 15kW and the current draw would not be an issue.
 
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the MI booklet states quite clearly that the appliance has to be connected via a switch fused connection unit fused at 13 amp , for u.k.
 
the MI booklet states quite clearly that the appliance has to be connected via a switch fused connection unit fused at 13 amp , for u.k.
The MI recommends a FCU, it can be directly connected.

"For UK only A Switched Fused Connection Unit to BS 1363 Part 4 is recommended"
 
pb of Derry ,the recommendation is the type of fcu and the standard to which it conforms. I would draw your attention to the paragraphs preceding ..." this appliance is supplied with 3 core mains cable and MUST be connected to the electric supply via a double pole switch"....it further goes on to highlight ,in bold text , the fuse MUST be rated at 13 amp....if you are inferring that the connection directly to the 10 mm circuit cable with 40 amp single pole mcb protection is complying with the makers installation instructions , would you kindly point out where. kind regards terry.
 
What I am inferring is, regardless of what the manufacturers instructions state, is that it can be directly connected to the outlet plate.
It will be electrically safe, a double pole isolator is not required, but I would assume there is one isolating the outlet plate.

This is the part that should be complied to:
"Any permanent electrical installation must comply with the latest I.E.E. Regulations"

The regulations do not require, in this case a FCU or DP Iso, nor do they say you must follow the MI.
 
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you are perfectly correct that regs do not require an fcu or dp iso. however we are discussing what the manufacturer requires , to protect their appliance and its internal wiring and components ,which is fuse down to 13 amp. are you seriously suggesting that its wise to connect it directly to the op's circuit ,which is protected by a 40 amp MCB . in the event of a fault developing in the appliance ,currents in excess of what it is designed to cope with could cause internal damage long before a 40 amp protective device intervenes , wouldn't you agree ? regards terry.
 
The appliance is restricted to the current demand it draws and cannot draw more than that demand, there is nothing wrong or unsafe by connecting without the FCU
 
and when a fault develops within ,what current is it capable of drawing ?
 
If a fault happens within, the current could be anything and could be enough to blow the main fuse before a 13A fuse.

The simple answer to the OPs question, is that it can be connected without the use of a FCU. These are electrically standard procedures and comply to the requirements.
 
The appliance is restricted to the current demand it draws and cannot draw more than that demand,
If a fault happens within, the current could be anything and could be enough to blow the main fuse before a 13A fuse.
,...........................
total contradiction .
,..........................
you gave the op the simple answer at 9.23 yesterday ,and quite right you were to. regards terry.
 
Hi Guys, thanks for all your responses.
having read your comments, and the MI several times, i'm inclined to go FCU route.

I think the MI is miss leading, mixing EU and UK instructions together which the manufacturers should sort out.
 
Okay being (what i thought) smart, decided to purchase CLIND2BK-C which is rated 6400w and suitable to hard wire into outlet.
Just open the box to gloat over my new purchase and, would you believe it, cable is located on opposite side (right) to were i have outlet (left).
this means cable is just short of reaching outlet....damm.

Cable is HO7RN-F 5G1.5mm2. anyone know were i could find/purchase this cable, couple of meters will do, i can only find 50mtrs and above online.
 

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