overheating

[Burnerman]

Well, I have to say - if the coolant level is stable now then lets not panic too much. If the car was mine I'd keep a very close eye on those levels, and see what happens.
So - the cooling fan should come on in the region of 90 deg C.
Under normal circumstances whilst driving along, there should be enough air rushing through the radiator to keep the temperature down, and the fan off. Once in traffic though, the fan will likely come on.
If you feel at anytime the engine is getting too hot when you are driving, put the heater on fully hot and switch the internal fan on. It will roast you, but it will keep the engine happy!
Lets face it - the engine can run as hot as it likes, so long as it doesn't dump its coolant on the ground.
Stay in touch!!
John

 

[madder]

Thanks John. As always. I think there may have been some fluid out of the exhaust on an occasion or 2 but certainly not all the time. I guess that might be what you mean. I will keep a close eye on thigs, as you say. That's all I can do really.

 

[Burnerman]

Ignore the liquid in the exhaust - thats just condensation and all vehicles do it.....its particularly visible in winter.
If water was entering the cylinders there would certainly be a misfire on starting up, and if the leak was serious the engine would lock - so worry ye not about that one.
John

 

[madder]

Just finally in case this can help to confirm something one way or another. I've gone out and started the car. As soon as the engine heated up to normal level I checked the top hose for heat arriving rapidly and the radiator for constant heat and both were fine. This probably eliminates the thermostat. Upon startup there may have been a very tiny amount of bright-ish, smoke, only not in a continuous flow, just occasional. And after a few minutes the exhaust fume gave no colour. I waited for the temperature gauge to rise and when it did start rising I took a close look at the radiator, coolant expansion tank and hoses. No leaks but it was at this point exactly that the coolant starts to suck back into the expansion tank. Not aggressively, just pouring back in slowly, but continuously. I was able to open the expansion tank and see it flowing back in. Once I put the in car heater on, the expansion tank seems to slow down with the coolant sucking. And the temperature gauge starts to fall until it stays somewhere near the half way mark. That's all I can report.
If it is a block in the radiator, would a flush work? Or is it a replacement that's needed?

EDIT: I should also mention that as an experiment, I started the car with no cap on the radiator, with the radiator full. No movement from the water upon startup. Is that strange. I did, however, put the cap in place once I saw no air coming from it, but found it strange that there was no movement.

 

[Burnerman]

Well so far there doesn't seem to be an issue. No water movement with the rad cap off from cold is normal - after all, the thermostat is closed and is preventing circulation. As I've said before, the rad must always be brim full and the dip pipe in the expansion bottle being submerged.
Running a car on tickover isn't a thorough test really - as the car is driven much more heat is developed continuously, and this fact really tests the coolant system.
Modern radiators are really fragile - although I have no problem running a hose through them, I wouldn't use chemicals as they are too aggressive.
Motor factors will supply exchange rads if you decide you need one, but they don't come with caps usually so I'd replace that too.
So, be lucky and drive your car as normal, keeping an eye on the temperature gauge and coolant levels. If the level in the expansion bottle stays constant then you can reckon on the rad level being good too.
John

 

[madder]

I'd say it is losing some coolant. Not a lot but some. It's difficult to measure since the expansion tank is sucking it back in as soon as the car heats up. But before I started it today I had a look at the expansion tank, and while the hose was still submerged, it looked a small bit lower than when I left it. Not losing lots, but some. Anyway, I'm gonna price a replacement Rad from a scrapyard just to know where I stand, and keep driving in the meantime. You've all been very helpful. Cheers!

 

[madder]

Finally got my top hose from Toyota! Yay! Still suspecting a rad blockage too. Found a rad in a breakers yard. Got them to fit it with the new hose and top it up with coolant. All in for hose(from toyota), rad and fitting came to 100 euro! Not bad. Drove home and all seems fine. Won't know for sure til I'm in slow moving traffic I guess but I'm confident! Here's hoping!

 

[Burnerman]

Fingers crossed mate
Parts delivery aint exactly swift over there, huh?
John

 

[madder]

Fingers crossed mate
Parts delivery aint exactly swift over there, huh?
John

Had it been a newer car I'd have had no problem I reckon, and I suppose Carinas are very durable! But yeah, it was a bit of a wait!

Thanks John!