It's a Myson
The valve is an integrated part of the flexi
The valve is an integrated part of the flexi
Plinth heater woes
- Thread starter Tomo72
- Start date
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I've tried two different sizes of wire with the valve both open and closed
I usually ram my long 4mm hex key up these flexis, usually clears enough to let the water flow and flush the rest of the carp out.
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It is very likely the blockage is at the restriction caused by the iso valve. So you will probably need something long enough to reach into that.
A rigid rod is likely to be far more effective than anything flexible. Apart from the metal strip type of drain unblocker as they are fairly stiff over a short distance.
Tony
A rigid rod is likely to be far more effective than anything flexible. Apart from the metal strip type of drain unblocker as they are fairly stiff over a short distance.
Tony
Success! It was blocked isolation valve end, a good 4 inches of it. Flexed and poked and flexed and poked and flushed. I just need to treat the entire system now. The water was so black and rusty it's as if it's never been treated, ever!
Perhaps you will now understand the benefits of adding inhibitor to a system.
It also helps to allow a flow through every part of the system occasionally even if some parts are not going to be used all the time.
It also helps to allow a flow through every part of the system occasionally even if some parts are not going to be used all the time.
D
Doggit
Where you pocking the flexi hose with the system full by any chance - just how wet did you get.
If you're system is that blocked and gungy, then there's a good chance that the whole system is as well, and I suspect there's cold patches at the bottom of the radiators. At some stage, you'll need to drain the whole system down, and progressively flush the system through.
You first put some system cleaner in the Central heating and run it for about a week, then you can hire power flushing machine, but if you're not a plumber, then they can be tricky to link in to the system.
As you spotted earlier, if you move the crud, you've got to get it to go somewhere, so If you do it manually then you take off the rads, carry them outside (careful to make sure no water drops on the carpets, and put a hose on one end, and run water through it - but you need to thump it, and try and turn it upside down at the same time to dislodge the crud in the bottom, and you do each one in turn before starting on the pipes. This bit gets tricky, as you have to have a hose from the mains tap on one of the rad valves, then you put a hose on another valve further down the system, and stick that in a big bucket. You shout at your assistant to tun on the water, and the crud get pushed down the pipe, and out of the hose in to the bucket you're holding. and you just keep moving round the system till you get no more crud coming out. You put the rads back on, fill the system, add the inhibitor, and you should have a much better system.
If you're system is that blocked and gungy, then there's a good chance that the whole system is as well, and I suspect there's cold patches at the bottom of the radiators. At some stage, you'll need to drain the whole system down, and progressively flush the system through.
You first put some system cleaner in the Central heating and run it for about a week, then you can hire power flushing machine, but if you're not a plumber, then they can be tricky to link in to the system.
As you spotted earlier, if you move the crud, you've got to get it to go somewhere, so If you do it manually then you take off the rads, carry them outside (careful to make sure no water drops on the carpets, and put a hose on one end, and run water through it - but you need to thump it, and try and turn it upside down at the same time to dislodge the crud in the bottom, and you do each one in turn before starting on the pipes. This bit gets tricky, as you have to have a hose from the mains tap on one of the rad valves, then you put a hose on another valve further down the system, and stick that in a big bucket. You shout at your assistant to tun on the water, and the crud get pushed down the pipe, and out of the hose in to the bucket you're holding. and you just keep moving round the system till you get no more crud coming out. You put the rads back on, fill the system, add the inhibitor, and you should have a much better system.
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