Polypipe underfloor heating

had various debates with polypipe on this very subject, tiling onto polypipe.....

you'll find most tilers wont tile directly onto it.

theres two options that we give to our customers.

lay a decoupling mat with an s2 adhesive, and fix tiles with the s2 adhesive, but my preferred way and one that gets specd by our tile adhesive supplier tilemaster is pour tm rapid level 30 or tm levelflex leveller over polypipe, then use tm ulitmate s2 to fix tiles.

fitting deltaboards/wedi/marmox type boards wouldnt help with the heat coming up. nor more ply or hardie cement boards are also another alternative.

Oh here we go, the pearls of wisedom from the ex-used car saleman now selling tiles!! Mate nobody cares what you think, we're interested in Heating not some crappy tiles.
 
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Yeah Tilemaster can say what they want but Ditra and hardiebacker board are polypipe approved.
 
Oh here we go, the pearls of wisedom from the ex-used car saleman now selling tiles!! Mate nobody cares what you think, we're interested in Heating not some crappy tiles.

thats right, only been doing this for 22 years, what would in i know! (not on here for any other reason than to give advice)

Yeah Tilemaster can say what they want but Ditra and hardiebacker board are polypipe approved.

thats interesting, ive never seen that before, have you got a spec written to confirm this? (genuine question)
 
Polypipe will only tell you on the phone about the Ditra as its not in the instructions for some reason. Im sure it mentions hardiebacker in their instructions. They also tell you on the phone about not using latex self leveller.
 
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and yet you speak to any tile adhesive manufacturer in this country and not one (to my knowledge) will say you can tile directly on top of polypipe/similar products. 2 tile adhesive companies weber and tilemaster will specify the boards are levelled with a flexible leveller.

just to add, this is what polypipes twitter account sent to me:

Correctly installed Overlay should be level and secured to provide a solid flat base for tiling directly, the use of a coverboard, decoupling membrane or leveller is suitable however where a low floor height build up is essential this can be omitted. The use of a primer and flexible adhesive and grout suitable for UFH is required to allow for any movement. Polypipe Overlay panels are made from Gypsum fibreboard and are therefore ideal for tiling.
 
Motto to anyone reading this thread.

Don't trust a builder to have anything to do with UFH heating specification.

Or anything else heating/hot water related!
 
Skool boy physics will tell you what is & what is not a good conductor of heat.
UFH is mainly radiant heat.

I for one would never tile on anything other than concrete & concrete is the best thermal mass for UFH.

Why tile a floor anyway?? It just looks dated in 6-10 years & you can't change it easily like a carpet of laminate. Now, a nice wooden floor looks good for a lifetime!!
 
had various debates with polypipe on this very subject, tiling onto polypipe.....

fitting deltaboards/wedi/marmox type boards wouldnt help with the heat coming up. nor more ply or hardie cement boards are also another alternative.

Think that's an understatement. By my calculations you're sending about 90% of the heat to Australia if you stick these boards on top of the heating pipes. :D
 
Skool boy physics will tell you what is & what is not a good conductor of heat.
UFH is mainly radiant heat.

I for one would never tile on anything other than concrete & concrete is the best thermal mass for UFH.

Why tile a floor anyway?? It just looks dated in 6-10 years & you can't change it easily like a carpet of laminate. Now, a nice wooden floor looks good for a lifetime!!

That last time I studied physics wood wasn't a good conductor of heat at all!
 
Hi - new to this and in the same dilemma. We have about 80m2 of flooring to tile, screeding was done 5 months ago. I wasn't budgeting for this extra cost - is it really recommended to go for the Ditra mat? I've been quoted £220 as the cheapest price for a 30m2 roll. What sort of adhesive do you need to stick the mat down and if you dont install the mat, is it realistic to assume that cracks will appear and damage the tiles?
 
had a specification written for me by TileMaster on this very subject the other day.......

they recommended that the polypipe boards are primed with primeplus 3-1 then levelled with 5mm levelflex (a flexible self levelling screed) then solid bed fix the tiles using setaflex or ulitmate tile adhesive (if tiles are natural stone, a decoupler (ditra/Dural) is needed)

grout tiles with grout 3000.
 
What should be the thickness of the glue to stick down the Ditra 25 and generally how thick should tile adhesive be? Trying to understand by FFL height in addition to the tile height.
 

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