Potterton EP3002 problem:

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I Fitted a new EP3002 about 18months ago and it worked fine. Now this summer when I turn the central heating side off, the hot water will not come on. The red indicator lights but the boiler does not start up. If I then switch the CH side on, the boiler fires.
Anyone any ideas or is it simply a matter of "get another programmer"??
 
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if the red light is lighting up i would next check out the zone valve controlling the hot water, if there is power there but the valve is not opening you need the valve repaired, changing the clock wont fix that,
 
if the red light is lighting up i would next check out the zone valve controlling the hot water, if there is power there but the valve is not opening you need the valve repaired, changing the clock wont fix that,

Thanks for that. However, when I set both HW & CH on the programmer, the boiler fires and I do get hot water, doesn't that mean that the valve must be working??
 
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OK, now I understand!! I've got two of these (Honeywell).
 
use a multi meter and put the hw on only and check for power on the orange wire in the wiring centre.

if you put hw only on can you feel if the pumps running ?
 
that tells me you won't get power on the orange then.
but still check

also check for power on the grey to that valve.
if you have power on the grey and no power on orange then the micro switch or borad inside valve head is faulty.

if you say you get hw with heating on then the motor part of the valve is working.
 
that tells me you won't get power on the orange then.
but still check

also check for power on the grey to that valve.
if you have power on the grey and no power on orange then the micro switch or borad inside valve head is faulty.

if you say you get hw with heating on then the motor part of the valve is working.

Right now I've replaced the batteries in the meter...
there is no power to orange lead when HW only on.
There is power to the grey lead when HW only on.

This means..... ??
 
a new actuator. top part of valve.
take the top off the actuator and you can see the micro switch etc
operate the hw on/off and you'll see the moter move.

when the valve is open the lever on the end will be loose
and lever will have resistance when valve is closed.
 
And the next stupid question then: So I just need to buy and fit another of those Honeywell boxes then?
 

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