Potterton Performa 28 - flue/fan problem

[matthew4444]

Hi

I've got a Potterton Performa 28 combi. I had a pressure problem with it which I've sorted (it was a leaking draincock.) However, a couple of weeks ago it failed to work and the fan/flue neon was flashing - I reset it and all seemed okay. The same thing happened again last week and again last night and this morning. It seems to be failing to start up when the timer kicks in. Once I reset it it appears to run normally. The user instructions state it is either a blocked flue or an 'internal problem.' Is a blocked flue likely given that it works when reset? Or could it be the fan assembly itself or air pressure switch? Even with the neon flashing I thought I could hear the fan faintly whirring but I'm not sure. As it looks as if it's getting worse I'd like to get it sorted ASAP. I'm not too technically minded but any advice gratefully received.

Regards

Matthew

 

[ChrisR]

You MAY have a fan/flue problem, but it's better odds that your pcb is faulty. That's the way they go!
A "signature" pcb failed behaviour is that the fan gets a little kick for a split second, then the 50 light starts flashing.
It's a 5112380 - about 6 in stock!
If your board's a 248074 then get a new board anyway, you'll need it sooner or later!

 

[matthew4444]

Thanks for the information Chris. Is the printed circuit board easy to replace for a novice? I assume it's undo the front panel screws, slide the panel off, drop the control panel, remove the old pcb and slot the new one in? I'm not sure of the part number but I'll check my boiler serial number when I get home (at work at the moment.)

I forgot to mention the boiler is, I think, about 4 or 5 years old - not sure if that would add weight to your diagnosis. Also, how much do pcb's cost?

Regards

Matthew

 

[matthew4444]

An update on this and top marks to ChrisR for the diagnosis. In the end I got BG in to do it on one of their homecare deals. The engineer first changed the air pressure switch with no difference and after a considerable time checking various things concluded it was the PCB - something to do with how the pcb controls the aps. Anyway, came back the next day, fitted it and hey presto job's a good un.

If I'd tried to do it myself with the aps and pcb - the cost would have been more than I paid BG. The other thing I've learned from this is the amount of different diagnoses given for one problem is amazing. I know it can be difficult to diagnose problems without seeing things but one heating engineer I spoke to on the phone said 'absolutely no way can it be the pcb.' He then didn't show which now I'm quite pleased about.