Morning Folks,
Last week, I managed to get a radiator working that I believe has never worked since the house was built in 2007. Massive thank you to Dalalio on this forum who helped me with the problem.
I've read the FAQ on re-pressurising and here's my plan for today. Would really appreciate it if someone wouldn't mind double-checking it.
Background:
Plan for today:
Apologies for the length of this. The only thing I haven't mentioned is the PRV. I now know not to drain anything via the PRV in case it gets clogged up with debris. Very hard water area so probably already is. Have seen a YouTube video on how to clean them. I'm a reasonably competent DIY-er, but is the PRV something I should not attempt to replace or clean myself?
Thanks in advance! Hope you all have a great weekend!
Last week, I managed to get a radiator working that I believe has never worked since the house was built in 2007. Massive thank you to Dalalio on this forum who helped me with the problem.
I've read the FAQ on re-pressurising and here's my plan for today. Would really appreciate it if someone wouldn't mind double-checking it.
Background:
- Potterton Powermax HE 150 boiler. 7 years old. Losing pressure and needs topping up via filling loop on daily basis. 11 radiators of varying size (some very small!). All radiators and hot water working perfectly though.
- Believe boiler has never been serviced. Will get it serviced annually once fault is rectified.
- (Water hardness in area is ‘very hard’).
- Two VERY slow leaks from upstairs rads (son's bedroom bleed nipple and office TRV).
Plan for today:
- Turn off Central Heating. Allow to cool. Power off boiler at mains.
- Turn off both valves on kitchen rad (no drain cock in house). Drain rad and attach garden hose to TRV valve. Run hose into garden drain.
- Fully open kitchen TRV valve and drain system fully. Open a few upstairs bleed valves to allow air in and drain for about an hour until system empty.
- Whilst empty, repair/replace upstairs leaking TRV. Remove and patch up son’s radiator bleed nipple valve with PTFE tape.
- Pump up boiler’s internal expansion vessel to 1.0 bar (is it unimportant if radiator bleed valves are open or closed because system should now be completely empty of water and therefore no pressure?). If water comes out of Schraeder valve, order a replacement expansion vessel - no point wasting Fernox at this stage. Book gas-safe engineer to fit.
- If no water coming out of Schraeder valve, pour 1 litre of Fernox F3 into system via son’s radiator using funnel and re-insert PTFE’d bleed valve. Refit kitchen radiator.
- Close all opened bleed nipple valves using radiator key. Fill system to 1.0 bar. Bleed downstairs rads. Bleed upstairs rads. Repeat until gauge shows 1.5 bar and no air in rads.
- Power on boiler. Turn on central heating and let Fernox F3 do its thing for one week (and hope pressure stays reasonably stable). If son’s 1/2-inch valve leaks during this time, order a new valve.
- One week later, assuming all OK, repeat process to drain system and remove Fernox F3. Once empty (and whilst hose is running into back garden sewer) add water via filling loop to flush system. Leave water running until all Fernox flushed out and water running clear.
- Add Fernox F1 inhibitor. Top up system again.
Apologies for the length of this. The only thing I haven't mentioned is the PRV. I now know not to drain anything via the PRV in case it gets clogged up with debris. Very hard water area so probably already is. Have seen a YouTube video on how to clean them. I'm a reasonably competent DIY-er, but is the PRV something I should not attempt to replace or clean myself?
Thanks in advance! Hope you all have a great weekend!