Potterton Prima 40f - ignites, and then... goes out :(

Does it RELIABLY heat a full cylinder of DHW from cold to hot? If so, then the problem could be with a motorised valve, rad valves or some blockage on the CH side of the pipework.
 
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Does it RELIABLY heat a full cylinder of DHW from cold to hot? If so, then the problem could be with a motorised valve, rad valves or some blockage on the CH side of the pipework.

Reliably? I'd say what's happening now (on just HW) is that it very slowly heats the tank (because it's intermittantly running the main burner) which means it will do it, but it will also take quite a while. I can't empirically confirm that but i've shutdown the CH for the time being and i'm retaining HW so long as I run it long enough (I think). Not entirely useful I know but you'll appreciate it's hard to work out what's wrong with both limited time and knowledge.
 
you do know that if you have just hot water on, then the burner will cycle on and off quite quickly and quite often?

have you got a cylinder thermostat or any motorised valves in your system?
 
Fixed!

Or so it seems.

In the end I decided to take a look at the main logic board PCB - three caps replaced later and i now have heat and hot water. Thank you all for your insight but it turned out to be the crappy (and I mean crap - this board is positively stoneage electronics) PCB. Watch out for dry solders on these or stuff that's worked loose or burnt out from getting too warm (wonder why?) too.

Why do these caps die? Read: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrolytic_capacitor

You might remember motherboards having the same issues in PCs and that's why solid caps get used thesedays. The board in the Prima is dated 1993 though ;)

Hopefully this will hold - total cost £1.26 :D Ignition is flawless, faster too, and the main burner is staying solidly on as it warms up a whole house of cold rads and a cold tank of water.
 
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