Quick oven socket question

[Filby1]

Sounds good.

And the 6mm from the Hob and oven to the CCU would be fine even if the entire run from Consumer Unit to CCU is in 10mm.

And as above, a 40amp MCB would be ok?

And given that the Oven at 2.2kw and the Hob at 7.2Kw would then be running in effect off 40Amp would this still be ok?

The only reason i was using the FCU was to give the Hob 13Amp safety instead of the full 40Amps of the MCB.

Last but not least, given that some say ovens can trip RCD's can i run the whole Oven/Hob Radial on an RCBO? or would i have the same trip problems ?

 

[5parks]

If you've got a hob over built in oven why don't you just fit either a dual metal back box or two singles behind the oven take your 10mm feed from the load side on your cooker dp switch into one, then a bit of 2.5mm between to feed the other box, single socket on the 2.5side as you will not draw much load on the oven ( a kettle is around 3kw) so a plug top with 13a fuse will be fine. Then fit a cooker terminal plate for the hob job done. 32a mcb will be sufficient.

 

[Filby1]

Its a separate Oven and Hob, not a cooker

 

[5parks]

Yeah hob over built in oven, assuming there in the same 600 space hob cut into work top and oven slid in underneath?

 

[5parks]

Your oven which I guess is a single fan assisted oven will plug into the socket protected by the fuse in the plug top, and your hob hard wired to the cooker terminal but both isolated from your 45a dp switch

 

[5parks]

Ps my dad is over in shiply I see your in the Bradford area I bought him some electrical tools for Christmas as he's always phoning up about jobs he should not be attempting if you need a screwdriver

 

[Filby1]

So now everyone is saying plug the bloody oven in, 2 pages ago everyone said hard wire it, i have a MK CCU with 3 pin plug already.

Now im to plug it in and use 6mm wire from the switch to the Hob.

And a 32 Amp MCB would be ok given the Hob will be 7.2Kw and the Cooker 2.25Kw ?

And an MCB over an RCBO even if the latter is safer ?

 

[5parks]

Is your ccu above the work top? You wouldn't really want the plug coming up through your work top ideally. And the big red switch would on kill the hob if u used the socket on the ccu. The way I described would be best really and neater, I would suggest though thinking about as I encouter this problem some times is to use an unswitced spur rather than a socket as the oven sometimes doesn't go right back cos it hits the plug top. It's your call

 

[Filby1]

I was going to put the CCU right on the wall, it does have a Socket but i aint gona use it

so see is this sounds ok..

Consumer unit to CCU in 10mm T&E out the CCU to Dual appliance plate then out the bottom of the Plate to the Hob and the Other side to FCU and then onto the Oven.

This setup sounds both neat and safe, then do i back the whole lot out with 32 or 40 Amp MCB or RCBO ?

 

[5parks]

Generally anything you plug into and use outside the home shold be rcd protected, now everything has to be rcd protected but as your installation is older if you were to use just a 45a dp switch with no socket I wouldn't worry too much but if you are going to use your ccu with the socket on I would suggest an rcbo 32a will be fine, we talk about diversity basically your not likely to use the full load all at once, ie every ring on full blast the oven on full blast the grill on full blast etc.

 

[Filby1]

Cool, its going as i thought it would, No say if it does have a socket and the MK one i has does i would never use it, i have no need i have plenty of RCD protected sockets in the Kitchen 3 doubles on an RCD ring.

So a 32 amp rcbo it is then, double safe, and the 6mm cable from double outlet plates to fcu and the Hob would be ok.

 

[5parks]

Had a quick search on screwfix for you put this number into the search bar on there site 88516 that's the cooker terminal ( cooker connection unit) basically a posh choc block, fit two single boxes chased into the wall fit this on one for the hob and sick the fused spur on the other. Job done

 

[EFLImpudence]

Sorry if I'm mistaken but you seem to be confusing -

CCU Cooker Control Unit - on wall above worktop with switch and additional socket which is not fused and would look naff if used for oven.

CCU Cooker Connection Unit - below worktop for connecting cables.

What you propose would be alright but as I said before, if you use a double connection unit you could do away with the Fused Connector if you use 6mm² cable to the oven as well(although it may actually be too big (physically too large) to go in the oven terminals).

A 32amp breaker would do but this entails you working in the consumer unit and another can of worms.

 

[Filby1]

So then everything would be behind the cooker with no Switch? if this is ok this would be great, no unsightly switch on the surface.

So this setup would be:

Consumer unit in 10mm into "88516" then wire from "88516" 6mm to the next box witch would be a FCU and then from there 6mm to the Oven?

am i right in thinking i can come out the 88516 both for direct connection to the hob and also to the FCU including the big 10mm mains? are ther terminals that big?

 

[Filby1]

Another can of worms ? Why?

Sorry if I'm mistaken but you seem to be confusing -

CCU Cooker Control Unit - on wall above worktop with switch and additional socket which is not fused and would look naff if used for oven.

CCU Cooker Connection Unit - below worktop for connecting cables.

What you propose would be alright but as I said before, if you use a double connection unit you could do away with the Fused Connector if you use 6mm² cable to the oven as well(although it may actually be too big (physically too large) to go in the oven terminals).

A 32amp breaker would do but this entails you working in the consumer unit and another can of worms.