Quick oven socket question

[EFLImpudence]

You're not supposed to alter things in the consumer unit without either; notification to LABC or employing registered electrician.

You may very well think you can do it but I couldn't possibly comment.

 

[PrinceofDarkness]

This mole-hill begins to take on montainous proportions......

There's no need for a blessed FCU or a socket for goodness' sake. The oven and hob are wired directly to the connection plate which is controlled by the Cooker Control above the worktop.

Treat the hob and oven as though they were a single free-standing cooking appliance - and for goodness' sake, get on with it!



Lucia.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Well said.

 

[5parks]

Just one other thing don't know how clued up u are and assuming you've never fitted an rcbo before and to save you asking more questions later, when you get it, it will have a blue cable hanging out of it and a thin White cable, the blue one will go into the neural bar of the fuse board and the neutral of your cooker cable will go into the rcbo the thin White cable will go into the earth bar with the earth from your cooker cable. Hope this is helpful.

 

[5parks]

Just one other thing don't know how clued up u are and assuming you've never fitted an rcbo before and to save you asking more questions later, when you get it, it will have a blue cable hanging out of it and a thin White cable, the blue one will go into the neural bar of the fuse board and the neutral of your cooker cable will go into the rcbo the thin White cable will go into the earth bar with the earth from your cooker cable. Hope this is helpful.

 

[Filby1]

So either way is right..?

Oh and thanks for the RCO advice.

I can understand either way,

the Control unit under the surface takes both wires from the Oven 6mm for hob maybe 6 or 4mm for the Oven then from here another cable 6mm goes back up into the cooker Outlet in the rear of the MK cooker switch ?

 

[5parks]

Simplified- fuse board to 45 dp switch above work top
-out of 45a dp switch to cooker outlet in 6mm or 10mm
-out of this to oven and hob

Single ovens normally have a flex cable already fitted is this not the case with yours?

 

[Filby1]

Great stuff, no neither the hob or oven have cables

Oh i can only find a 30amp RCBO by wylex will that work or is it too small

 

[EFLImpudence]

Think you mean 30mA

You need a type B 32Amp RCBO which has a tripping current of 30milliamp

 

[Filby1]

Yeah thats it i found them,

Going to ditch the switch+socket.

Il buy an Mk switch 45Amp, just a switch.

Simple now then.

RCBO>>>45 Amp Switch>>>>>Connector Unit from here to Oven in 6mm if i can 4mm if not and Hob in 6mm job done and safe.

Then i will get the Sparky in to sign the job off.

After wathching then shady builders on Tv i hate paying for work i know i can do myself, and because im so picky i can do it right myself and do a better job, just needs to be checked thats all

 

[EFLImpudence]

 

[riveralt]

Then i will get the Sparky in to sign the job off.

After wathching then shady builders on Tv i hate paying for work i know i can do myself, and because im so picky i can do it right myself and do a better job, just needs to be checked thats all

You will struggle here unless you involve the electrician from the outset - members of competent persons schemes cannot sign other peoples work 'off'.

 

[sherlockholmes]

Then i will get the Sparky in to sign the job off.

I suspect that won't be happening, which is no big deal if you get it right and a very bad thing if you get it wrong. If you really do plan to get it signed off on, getting someone to sign off on a job you've planned and executed before calling them in may well prove trickier than you expect. He'd be taking on responsibility for both planning and execution, he'd need to check the whole cable run and all your connections as well as running his tests. I wouldn't be surprised if it works out about the same price as getting him to install the whole thing, if you prepare the route, install the back box etc.

 

[Filby1]

I will look into both options, il get the parts first, at least try not to get the added extra you Sparkys put on things haha.

These Fancy RCBO's sound like a sound invention

I really wil be having it looked at if i was to do the work trust me, but i would still want a double check even if i payed a so called qualified sparky.

The wiring in the house now is truly awful.

there is 14 sockets in the house with some spurs of here and there with all of them running of one breaker at 32 amps with junctions boxes everywhere, so no 1st and ground floor separation, same with the lights everything on one 20amp breaker both up and down stairs with only 2 x 2.5mm wires comming out and 1 x 1mm out for all the lights with not a single energy saver in sight, and to top it all off one of the up stair's light junction boxes has about 15 wires out of it

 

[Filby1]

Can i just say after being a little unsure to begin with about this whole thing.

Im now sure and thanks again, i can turn my hand to most things and in the beginning i felt some of you guys was taking the ****, when all i wanted was help.

Anyhow i now think i know and understand what i am doing,

However if anybody does have anything to add that may help that would be great.

Thanks

Mark.