Ravenheat boiler not staying on

[captain007]

Howdy - have got a ravenheat boiler + hot water cylinder, the boiler up until a week ago was working brilliantly.

I removed a couple of radiators for walls to be plastered and this seems to have affected the boiler.

The problem is the boiler is coming on but flicking off after 1 minute, the pilot light is still on ok. No radiators are hot and there is also a clunking noise from the boiler. I haven't had chance to check the F+E tank, but after isolating (turning off) all radiators except the nearest to boiler I'm sure I could hear it trying to fill-up.

My best guess is that somehow there is air in the system? Does this mean the pressure in the system has dropped and the water isn't getting pumped?

At a guess would I be right in thinking the system needs draining, re-filling to fix this?

Any thoughts much appreciated.

 

[corgiman]

did you top it up after the rads have been removed

whats the pressure guage reading?

 

[captain007]

no pressure gauge to check. This is a boiler downstairs with a hot water cylinder upstairs. There's a water supply to the boiler but there's no way to manually fill the boiler myself, except for an isolator to fully turn the water supply on/off.

Didn't mention before but the first few times I turned the boiler on when I noticed that the radiators weren't hot I could hear water flowing into the boiler (presumably thats refilling the system?). Since then I haven't noticed it doing this.

Think I'm gonna need to check the water level in the attic before doing anything else, seems to me like the pressure in the system is low?

 

[Slugbabydotcom]

I haven't had chance to check the F+E tank,

Think I'm gonna need to check the water level in the attic before doing anything else,

I didnt know that Ravenheat ever made a boiler that was not a sealed system only. What is the model or GC number of the boiler

 

[HarrogateGas]

I haven't had chance to check the F+E tank,

Think I'm gonna need to check the water level in the attic before doing anything else,

I didnt know that Ravenheat ever made a boiler that was not a sealed system only. What is the model or GC number of the boiler

They do, there is an estate of them round my way but cant for the life of me remeber the model.

Very similer in layout and controls as a MkII Fuelsaver BF

 

[Slugbabydotcom]

I haven't had chance to check the F+E tank,

Think I'm gonna need to check the water level in the attic before doing anything else,

I didnt know that Ravenheat ever made a boiler that was not a sealed system only. What is the model or GC number of the boiler

They do, there is an estate of them round my way but cant for the life of me remeber the model.

Very similer in layout and controls as a MkII Fuelsaver BF

Cheers HG. I learn something new every day on this site.

Is it a copper HE then?


Do your upstairs rads take ages to bleed? If so a blocked feed pipe is likely usually where it comes from the F&E tank and joins into the system.

If you are lucky the ballvalve might be stuck in the up position

Otherwise it could be air as you say Is there a manual air vent near your cylinder?

At a guess would I be right in thinking the system needs draining, re-filling to fix this?

It could make it worse.Check this out first

Follow that flow pipe and look hard for a vent. Where it gets cold with the system on is where the airlock is.
Sticking a hosepipe on your vent and blasting some mains water through the system can often sort the problem.
Here's a long shot: - It is possible that this problem has coincided with the demise of your pump

 

[captain007]

that the girlfriend had turned the water supply to the F+E tank off in October last year!, this coincided with us taking the radiators off and I suppose effectively draining the system. Obvious but there we go.

Cheers for all the advice tho, it all stays on board for any future problems.