H
holty
ye is mad how things work like there supposed to.
Ravenheat RSF 84 - thermistor!?!
- Thread starter mogsyd
- Start date
ye is mad how things work like there supposed to.
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If fan and pump are still running after the heating has went off then the boiler isnt as bad as u think !
since u have turned on the HW when u have had the CH runnin the water has taken priority. Not to sure on that model but ravenheats have anticycles which means when the CH switches its self off, it wont come back on for a few mintues
since u have turned on the HW when u have had the CH runnin the water has taken priority. Not to sure on that model but ravenheats have anticycles which means when the CH switches its self off, it wont come back on for a few mintues
ye is mad how things work like there supposed to.
the point is it wasnt working like it was suppost too (read earlier posts!)
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its inside the 3way valve part number 008val03010/0
Diampharm kit for that 3way valve u need! just phone ravenheat parts and they well sell you it.
Diampharm kit for that 3way valve u need! just phone ravenheat parts and they well sell you it.
yes its inside 3wayvalve. when you see the diapharm you will understand wot part it goes. it tells you in the instructions how to do it! just remember to turn off the valves and drain the boiler.
1st time i done one it took ages
1st time i done one it took ages
right heres my thinking, i see replacing the Diaphragm being a pain in the back side and would cost about 15-20 quid, i could get a whole replacement valve for 30-35 quid, would it be easier and safer to replace the whole value?
I've had my CSI to bits loads of times (I'm not CORGI registered or part P) and I'm still alive! Living with this boiler is really a labour of love.
The diaphragm is best removed and examined first to see if it has perished or split (or has some crap which is causing an issue) Simple thing to take apart and replace. If it’s not perished or split then it’s not the diaphragm.
Things I have learnt the hard way:
Its always simple parts that go! This means thermostats. I now consider these routine replacement items.
They do stop the boiler from lighting (or remaining lit) it's their function.
The fan either turns or it sticks. If it sticks, then oil it.
The issues I have found many times are the seal on the front face. If too much air is being sucked in, it cuts out.
PCB is of quite poor quality with very inexpensive components.
The PCB hates water but because of the very low voltage across it, you can get away with a lot.
I always (twice a year) remove the heat exchanger (DHW) and fill it with powdered citric acid and leave it for a couple of hours. This is amazing stuff and cleans a lot of crap (and is great for any brass fittings)
The gas valves are Honeywell so they are good quality and should never really go.
I do have a very strange thing going on at the moment which is this:
Morning times, DHW with immediate effect.
Afternoons (warm) then kitchen feed is not igniting the boiler and will run straight through but if I turn on the bathroom taps, it runs hot!
This has to be something to do with the PCB when heated it expands and is maybe causing a short.
Still I can't imagine life where I was not involved with my CSI at least every month
it would be alot easier to replace full valve. not bought one in a while but im sure they are near the 100 quid but yes it is alot easier to change full valve
hi tony
I buy citric acid cristals from an asian food shop they use it in cooking,
I use them to restore grandfather clock movement brass parts then i can pollish them up ready to assemble I do it for a hobby
Mick
I buy citric acid cristals from an asian food shop they use it in cooking,
I use them to restore grandfather clock movement brass parts then i can pollish them up ready to assemble I do it for a hobby
Mick
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