Removing an old Crittal window frame

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I recently read an article about removing some old Crittal metal window frames. There were several methods mentioned and I tried a different approach. Here is my story when I had a go at my own.
I live in an old 1948 brick built bungalow. It was, we believe, built by a farmer with very limited building skills and knowledge.
I took an old frame out a few weeks ago and having never removed one before suspected it would be a pig. I have only ever replaced wooden frames like for like before. My Crittal frames sit on an external stone sill but are sitting over the cavity, so I have narrow internal window sills. The internal window reveals are lined in painted wood with an architrave surround. The external reveals are rendering. I started by removed the screws in the accessible parts of the frame, on the openers and worked out that the fixings would be exactly opposite in the frame where the window is puttied in the frame. I had to put a blowlamp on all the screw heads as the paint was so thick and hard. I didn't fancy taking the windowpane out at the time, as I had read on this site. I used an ultra sharp wood chisel and removed the wood frame where I expected a fixing screw to be and exposed the screw. I did this 3 times so technically the metal frame should now be fixing free from the old wooden frame and in the words of a Haines manual, 'simple lift out'. How wrong could I have been. About 4 hours later, 6 cups of coffee, and nearly a broken relationship due to my bad mood, I ended up chiselling out most of the wooden frame. Eventually the metal frame loosened and came out leaving the remainder of the wood behind. It weighed quite a bit which surprised me. I also found that the original wood frame had been built into the brickwork inside as nails where driven into the frame to hold it into the internal wall coarsework. Again to avoid damaging the brickwork I had to carefully chisel away the rest of the wood from these nails, then when all the wood was out I cut the nails off. I also noticed that the frame was sitting in the cavity of the wall, there were no wall closers. Biggest spiders I have ever seen so closers would have been nice at time. And it was now that I worked out that the outer opening was larger height-wise than the inner opening. Never thought no more about that point until later. By then it was too late.
As I said earlier I have rendering on the outside of my place. I wanted a correct size window frame. So I removed the rendering to expose the brickwork in the external reveal and got a precise measurement. It wasn't hard work. I had a sheet of ply securely fixed in the gap until the window was made, missus didn't think too much about it. I also stuffed some foam sheet into the cavity to stop the big spiders from coming into the bedroom.
I measured up the gap for a new window and went to get a new one ordered. The company I used insisted I should have an external sill but I have seen them against a stone cill on other places and they look naff. I decided against the external built in sill and wanted the straight frame all around. They also offered me a vent, which when I saw how big it was decided against it as well. He said because they are replacement windows it was not compulsory.
Why did I remove the window and not have an immediate replacement?? I didn't’ trust my original measurements. I even had 2 different double-glazing surveyors round prior to starting the job myself but they just quoted to fit smaller units in to make installation easier for them. Not good enough for me I’m afraid. I am still glad I did it this way.
When the new window was done I excitedly pulled the ply away, checked measurements again and away I went. After carefully removing the foam sheet I stuffed in the cavity earlier at arms length, I fitted a PVC cavity closer which was about £11 for a 3m length from a PVC window stockist. Before I fitted the top closer I slid a 2” wall bat into place as I intend to get cavity wall fill soon and they don’t have access to above the windows as it is mostly in the soffit area. It tidied the gap up straight away. So now it was time for the new window frame. Unfortunately it was a bit tight getting in, it was also damned heavy. I had to shave about 2mm off the top of the stone sill where the unit sits. It was actually a mixture of old cement and build up of putty, paint etc from years gone by. The frame slipped in eventually and fitted perfect. Unfortunately on the inside the window sill was too high. I didn't anticipate this. The sides and top of the frame looked great but the bottom of the frame seemed very low. How very annoying. I must have stared at the problem for 30 minutes and was gutted that my plan was going wrong. I guessed I had mis-measured until I went outside and looked. The new window looked brilliant. So back inside I go, chew the missus head off as she made a 'have you tried..' comment and after another stare and scratching of the chin decided that the only option would be to carefully remove the old window sill inside. Just decorated as well, never mind. The making good inside will be a bit tricky but its only wood. And I wont be happy unless the job is right. So my advice to anybody fitting new windows with stone external stone sills be aware that you need to make an allowance to raise the bottom of the frame by about 40mm approx. Its just to take place of the sill and then it will look fine from the inside. Or you can lower the internal sill which adds to the amount of work and cost. In my case the old sills were warped and not very nice looking so they were better off replaced anyway. Also it is very useful to have an extra pair of hands. If you value your marriage its best not to use the missus as she is in the firing line when it goes wrong or she isn’t strong enough. Plus if they suggest something and they are right, and you are wrong it makes you look stupid, you just know you can’t agree with her or you will live with it for the rest of your life. And the good news is that I only have another 7 windows to go….whoopeee!!! :confused:
 
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So my advice to anybody fitting new windows with stone external stone sills be aware that you need to make an allowance to raise the bottom of the frame by about 40mm approx. Its just to take place of the sill and then it will look fine from the inside.

Ah you see if any surveyor worth his salt would of measured the internal reveal size too and deducted that from his external sizes some quick maths would of told him that he would lose too much if not all of the frame behind the internal cill. To get around that you could as you say use a cill, sometimes this still isnt enough, in your case you didnt want a cill so the surveyor would of specified a frame extender to be fitted often referred to in the trade as 'clip-on' , 'knock-on' or 'add-on' and is available in 10,15,20,25,30,50,100mm sizes depending on the profile manufacturer and it just clips into the grooves around the outside edge of a window.

You usually see them fitted on the hinge side of doors, its purpose is to bring the hinges away from the internal plaster, sometimes if its very thick or been overboarded you end up with the hinges buried into the plaster and that does look cra*
 
..............blah, blah, blah........And I wont be happy unless the job is right........blah, blah..............its best not to use the missus as she is in the firing line when it goes wrong or she isn’t strong enough. Plus if they suggest something and they are right, and you are wrong it makes you look stupid, you just know you can’t agree with her or you will live with it for the rest of your life. And the good news is that I only have another 7 windows to go….whoopeee!!! :confused:


All i,m gonna say is it is fortunate that you are into diy or dia....do it alone! :rolleyes:
 
..............blah, blah, blah........And I wont be happy unless the job is right........blah, blah..............its best not to use the missus as she is in the firing line when it goes wrong or she isn’t strong enough. Plus if they suggest something and they are right, and you are wrong it makes you look stupid, you just know you can’t agree with her or you will live with it for the rest of your life. And the good news is that I only have another 7 windows to go….whoopeee!!! :confused:


All i,m gonna say is it is fortunate that you are into diy or dia....do it alone! :rolleyes:

Having said all that it was my first PCV window installation in an old house. The several salemen that came round to measure up said that I needed to have the window sill on the outside. Didnt mention any spacers or standoffs, anthing like that.

BUT.... I saw a similar propery while I had had a few days off last week and the window frames were on the outer skin. I got a closer look and they had a small fillet fitted to the bottom of the frame to fill in the gap, I assume where the bottom of the square frame fitted to the slope of the concrete sill.

When I got home I had another look at mine and I took the frame out again. The making good wasnt quite complete so it wasn't too difficult. I fixed the frame to the outer skin and it fitted perfectly as I expected. It gave me a wider internal window sill, only thing is now I have to replace all the inner wood lining inside but I think I'll suffer that. It looks so much better.

That spacer on the hinge side of the doors, I have come across that problem with a house I rented last year, I cant believe installers get away with it. The door cant open fully because the door hits the skirting board. How naff.
 
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Cill wise where a window sits on a sandstone cill you have 2 choices, either do away with the cill and sit the window on top of the sandstone cill OR use an 85mm instead of a standard 150mm cill.....

http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?i...es?q=upvc+stub+cill&hl=en&rlz=1W1ADFA_en&um=1

Also here is a picture of a frame extender that you would use in place of a cill to stop the frame being hidden behind the plaster...

http://www.connaughtwindows.co.uk/wpimages/wp9831f175_0f.jpg[/QUOTE]

I have refitted the window but have since read your reply. I wish I knew you earlier. The bottom of the frame is sitting on the sill but the top of the stone sill is angled about 40 degrees. I obviously wont be able to use the extenders you refer to because the extenders are square, but I have to say its a good idea. In the real world if a company had done it would they simply fill the gap below the bottom of the frame with foam and put a bead over it?? We are only talking about 3/4" (or 20mm to the younger generation)
 
Cill wise where a window sits on a sandstone cill you have 2 choices, either do away with the cill and sit the window on top of the sandstone cill OR use an 85mm instead of a standard 150mm cill.....

http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?i...es?q=upvc+stub+cill&hl=en&rlz=1W1ADFA_en&um=1

Also here is a picture of a frame extender that you would use in place of a cill to stop the frame being hidden behind the plaster...

http://www.connaughtwindows.co.uk/wpimages/wp9831f175_0f.jpg[/QUOTE]

I have refitted the window but have since read your reply. I wish I knew you earlier. The bottom of the frame is sitting on the sill but the top of the stone sill is angled about 40 degrees. I obviously wont be able to use the extenders you refer to because the extenders are square, but I have to say its a good idea. In the real world if a company had done it would they simply fill the gap below the bottom of the frame with foam and put a bead over it?? We are only talking about 3/4" (or 20mm to the younger generation)

Correct, On a stone cill you wouldnt really use a 150mm cill as it would look hideous, the 85mm stub cill is an option because you'd have less of a gap underneath to seal if you get me, because of the 40 degree slope, also it would act as a frame extender. Iccidentally, you say you've fitted your window straight onto the stone cill without a pvc cill, so is the frame face drained??? have you got 2 push on caps covering the drainage holes about 100mm in from each edge?

http://www.ncdoubleglazing.co.uk/We.../C515/A7D1/88F1/24E4/50ED/8970/9791/FDC03.JPG

Or in situ...

http://www.polytechproducts.com/images_installation/fig9.jpg
 
Cill wise where a window sits on a sandstone cill you have 2 choices, either do away with the cill and sit the window on top of the sandstone cill OR use an 85mm instead of a standard 150mm cill.....

http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?i...es?q=upvc+stub+cill&hl=en&rlz=1W1ADFA_en&um=1

Also here is a picture of a frame extender that you would use in place of a cill to stop the frame being hidden behind the plaster...

http://www.connaughtwindows.co.uk/wpimages/wp9831f175_0f.jpg[/QUOTE]

I have refitted the window but have since read your reply. I wish I knew you earlier. The bottom of the frame is sitting on the sill but the top of the stone sill is angled about 40 degrees. I obviously wont be able to use the extenders you refer to because the extenders are square, but I have to say its a good idea. In the real world if a company had done it would they simply fill the gap below the bottom of the frame with foam and put a bead over it?? We are only talking about 3/4" (or 20mm to the younger generation)

Correct, On a stone cill you wouldnt really use a 150mm cill as it would look hideous, the 85mm stub cill is an option because you'd have less of a gap underneath to seal if you get me, because of the 40 degree slope, also it would act as a frame extender. Iccidentally, you say you've fitted your window straight onto the stone cill without a pvc cill, so is the frame face drained??? have you got 2 push on caps covering the drainage holes about 100mm in from each edge?

http://www.ncdoubleglazing.co.uk/We.../C515/A7D1/88F1/24E4/50ED/8970/9791/FDC03.JPG

Or in situ...

http://www.polytechproducts.com/images_installation/fig9.jpg[/QUOTE]

The bottom frame has a drain slot. I wondered what I would need to cover them. I'll pop into where I got the frames and see if they have any. I also noticed a drain slot in the inner frame where the windo sits. I was impressed with the plastic 'off-sets' which clip into the inner frame and hold the window away from the frame. There is only one drain slot, the frame is only a meter wide. Just out of interest does condensation biuld up inside the frame??
 
It may do but its mainly for any water that gets past the rubbers and it will, it'll build up in the bottom where your packers are and eventually find its way to the drainage hole you saw before fitting the glass. Because you have no cill the hole is initially drilled vertically down inside the frame then outwards horizontally then just fit the push on cap to tidy it up. If you had a cill then the hole would just be drilled vertically right through the frame and the water would drain over the top of the cill
 
It may do but its mainly for any water that gets past the rubbers and it will, it'll build up in the bottom where your packers are and eventually find its way to the drainage hole you saw before fitting the glass. Because you have no cill the hole is initially drilled vertically down inside the frame then outwards horizontally then just fit the push on cap to tidy it up. If you had a cill then the hole would just be drilled vertically right through the frame and the water would drain over the top of the cill

Very helpful info, thanks. Hopefully will get it complete over the Christmas hols. THEN i gotts start the next one and its twice the size. Wish I had kept up my weight straining when i was younger lol. Thanks again.
 

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