Replacing old Honeywell room thermostat with new wireless on

[leoleo]

Help.

Have old Honeywell traditional 3 wire thrmostat on lunge wall. Live + 2 x neutrals

Want to fit new Honeywell Y6630D1007 wireless room thermostat.

Finding wiring diagram difficult to follow - don't want to muck up the new thermostat.

Have Worcester 19/24 Cbi boiler with Potterton EP 2002 timer (poor me)

I was hoping this was going to be simple - turns out I'm the simple one.

Would appreciate some advice. Thanks.

 

[simond]

You will have two 'Live' conductors and one neutral.

You can use this as the base unit position or site the base unit where the wiring centre is; this is normally in the EP2002 backplate.

If you use the current stat position for your wireless receiver BDR91, you must leave the EP set to CH permanently on, or it won't work properly (the TPI functionality lives in the BDR receiver not the TX and it doesn't like being powered off).

Firstly and most importantly find which cable is the neutral, this goes in N. Then fit a wire link between L and A, (this should be coloured brown to meet current standards, by the way).

Then connect the two remaining Live cables to L and B respectively. Turn the EP to CH permanent and see if the BDR powers up. If it doesn't, reverse the Lives in L and B and try again.

The only safe way is with a multimeter, this is why you think you have two neutrals, because only one cable is coming up Live on your neon screwdriver. The neutral will be connected to the neutral term on your current stat. Don't mix it up with the other two or you might be buying a new receiver.

 

[D_Hailsham]

Have old Honeywell traditional 3 wire thermostat on lounge wall. Live + 2 x neutrals

Want to fit new Honeywell Y6630D1007 wireless room thermostat.

Presumably the three wires are connected to terminals 1, 2 and 3 of the Honeywell stat.

You will need a four-wire cable, which has to be wired as follows:

1 New permanent live to L (brown)
2. Old stat 2 to new stat N (blue)
3. Old stat 1 to new stat A (colour 3)
4 Old stat 3 to new stat B. (colour 4)

Do not use the green yellow (earth) wire as one of the four. You may have to buy a four core plus earth cable; if so, make the earth wire safe.

 

[simond]

If you keep the timer CH on permanent, the new cable is not required and adds nothing. You can do it with what you have there now.

If we were installing it (we're a Honeywell Installer Network member), we would wire it exactly as per D_H though.

 

[D_Hailsham]

If you keep the timer CH on permanent, the new cable is not required and adds nothing. You can do it with what you have there now.

The OP's new stat is just that - a stat; it's not a programmable stat. He is retaining the EP2002 to provide time info, so you can't just set the EP2002 to permanently on.

My way of wiring is the only way you can do it.

 

[leoleo]

Morning.

Thanks for all of your replies. They've been really helpful.

Thinking I will leave the old thermostat where it is (for now), but disconnected from the Potterton EP 2002 timer / boiler.

Instead I would like to fit the Honeywell Y6630D1007 next to the boiler, so I can connect with a 4 core cable - after all it is wireless and doesn't have to be where the old thermostat used to be.

Can anyone give me guidance on connected the new unit to the Potterton EP 2002 timer / Worcester 19/24 Cbi boiler - I have no circuit plans for either.

Sorry to be such a pain.

Regards.

 

[D_Hailsham]

I will leave the old thermostat where it is (for now), but disconnected from the Potterton EP 2002 timer / boiler.

You should disconnect the old thermostat wires from the EP2002 and make them safe.

Terminal 4 of the EP2002 is the CH ON wire, so this will enable you to identify the cable. the second wire will go to the N terminal and the third to one of the A to D terminals. This is the boiler ON terminal.

I would like to fit the Honeywell Y6630D1007 next to the boiler, so I can connect with a 4 core cable

Make sure it is not too close as the metal of the boiler can block the wireless signal.

Connect as follows:

EP2002 to Relay/Receiver
L to L (brown)
N to N (blue)
4 to A (colour 3)
Boiler ON ( identified above) to B (colour 4)

 

[leoleo]

Hi again.

Managed to get the xxx!! EP2002 off without destroying our kitchen.

Just following D_H's instructions and I have a query:

Terminal 4 of the EP2002 is the CH ON wire, so this will enable you to identify the cable.

EP2002 to Relay/Receiver
Step 1 - L to L (brown)
Step 2 - N to N (blue)

Step 3 - 4 to A (colour 3)
Step 4 - Boiler ON ( identified above) to B (colour 4)

Steps 1 & 2 fine.

Step 3 - you mention EP2002 position 4 to A (that's fine), but then in Step 4 you go from Boiler ON (which is also 4 on the EP2002) to B. Two connections from EP2002 no.4 - is this correct.


Sorry to be a pain on a Sunday.

Regards.[/b][/u]

 

[doitall]

Think you are getting in a tizzy

I marked the old room stat numbers on the pic.

Are you connecting the Relay where the old stat was or direct to the wiring center.

Forget the 2002 the heating needs to be on 24/7.

View media item 51960

 

[leoleo]

There's me thinking it would be a simple job.


I am now planning to fit the Honeywell Y6630D1007 next to the boiler, connected straight to the Potterton EP2002.

Thanks

 

[doitall]

There's me thinking it would be a simple job.


I am now planning to fit the Honeywell Y6630D1007 next to the boiler, connected straight to the Potterton EP2002.

Thanks

Not a good plan.

What motorized valves do you have.

 

[RF Lighting]

Show us a photo of the wiring you have at the existing stat position.

 

[doitall]

Show us a photo of the wiring you have at the existing stat position.

Why

It's a standard room stat L (1) Sw/L (3) N (2)

The boiler requires a switched live, normally from the orange in the MV.

4 in the programmer goes to 1 in the stat.

3 in the stat goes to the white in the MV.

The microswitch in the mv puts power on the orange which gets the boiler going.

 

[RF Lighting]

No sh1t

So why does the OP say he's got a live and two neutrals with no mention of an earth then?

 

[doitall]

No s**t

So why does the OP say he's got a live and two neutrals with no mention of an earth then?

because the OP has a red/brown and 2 blacks/blues and assumes they are neutrals.

But we know the black/blue in 3 is a switched live, Don't we.