Roof Line questions for a lamen

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Getting quotes for our 3 bed semi to have all new soffits,facias and gutters etc etc. our existing is wooden facias and what looks to be asbestos soffits.
obviousley we want any waste disposed of legally and safely,

but I have a few questions regarding the new stuff, and I am a total lamen when it comes to this stuff

1) quality of product: im assuming there is differing qualities of roofline materials , so what should I be looking for regards material,thickness etc etc

2) looking at other properties some seem to have visible fixings with caps on along the facia at every joist/truss, whereas some seem to be "invisible" and have a clean board right across the front of the property INCLUDING the apex soffits. again Id like the "Invisible" clean look, are the visible fixings a cheaper and quick fix method (ie a bodge job)

3. tile removal and replacement. seeing some properties its obvious that the front two rows of tiles have been lifted as they look as though they havent seated back down properly, again is this to be expected or a sign of a cheap rough job.


I hope these questions make a little sense and ANY advice is most welcome!!!
 
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1) make sure they use replacement thickness boards, (17mm ish, not 9mm) for the fascias, the soffits could be flat board/vented soffit or hollow soffit boards. make sure they fully replace the old boards and use vents in the new (either on the soffit, or on top of the fascia

2) nothing wrong with the visible fixings if you mean the white polytop nails, doubled up of course on the rafters

3) tiles should be removed really because the old felt will be knakered at the bottom edge. if they stick up or sit down a bit its because the new fascia may be the wrong height
 
Do make sure that the quote is for exactly what you want doing so put your requirements in writing to those you invite to quote.

The thinner plastic fascias are for covering over the old timber versions so are quicker and cheaper to fit.

If you want complete replacement make sure they are removing the old and fitting the thicker type.

Unless there is something wrong with your old guttering there may be no reason why it cannot be re-fitted.

Regards ventilation the main thing is to ensure where you already have ventilation that it is reinstated. It is usually OK to change the type of vent.

If your soffits are asbestos insulation boards, removal will need to be done by a licensed contractor which is very expensive. If Asbestos Cement your contractor may be able to do it.

There is no reason for the bottom rows of tiles to be laid differently following the work unless the original work was incorrect. New fascias should be sized to fit correctly.

Also see
//www.diynot.com/forums/roofing-guttering/what-to-look-for.389830/
 
I wrote this, feel free to use it as a reference - http://danielsroof.com/how-to-replace-fascia-and-soffits-boards-with-plastic-upvc/

I always use visible fixings for the fascia (2 x 65mm Polytop nails per rafter)

I use Floplast, but I have used Swish and Celuform in the past and found them both to be of high quality. I don't like Eurocell boards as they seem very light/flimsy and cheaply made, just my opinion.

I never cap over existing boards and suggest you avoid this too!

No idea why you think the bottom row of tiles should sit differently? Assuming the combined height of the new fascia, 10mm fascia vent and eaves felt is no more or less than the original fascia board then the tiles should sit in exactly the same place.

Here is a template I use when typing up quotes, the paperwork you get from any tradesperson/company should have at least as much detail as this - http://danielsroof.com/example_roofing_quotation.pdf

Hope it helps!

Daniel
 
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I think they were saying that they've seen jobs that have already been done that have tiles sitting up or down afterwards, this is just down to the height of the new fascia being different from the old ones, or even if the new fascias are the same height but the old soffits weren't level before :oops:
 

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