seeking out the last 60W

[danlightbulb]

Hi all,

Not strictly a DIY topic...

I've aquired one of those household energy monitors that hooks on to your live meter tail and gives you useage info.

I can get the unit to drop to around 60W by switching off everything I can find, but I can't get it any lower.

The only thing I have been unable to switch off is the burgler alarm, which is always on but never used. It doesn't have a switch though.

Any tips on finding the last 60W?

Cheers
Dan

 

[JohnD]

isolate circuits at the consumer unit

 

[davelx]

Turn off each circuit in turn at the CU to find out which circuit(s) the remaining load is on. Note that most of those units are only accurate to +/- 10% between 240 and 750W, and below 240W are likely to be very inaccurate.

 

[danlightbulb]

can do this on all circuits except the sockets, as the display unit is powered.

will report back.

 

[tambourineman]

Maybe the display unit requires 60w?

 

[AndyPRK]

remove the fuse for the alarm (where you would expect a switch)

If the battery is ok, it will be fine for a few minutes to see how low it drops.


Thought someone was trying to find 60W bulbs

 

[big-all]

you need a monitor that plugs in the socket as the clamp ones are just a guide and innacurate

this one is x_2%
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?criteria=power+monitor

2 people on another forum cant find the same 60w with everything turned off

 

[sparkwright]

Loft light left on?

 

[planemad]

can do this on all circuits except the sockets, as the display unit is powered.

will report back.

you can do this - plug unit into the downstairs ring then pop off the upstairs ring to see if you get the drop.
then move the unit to an already tested ring and plug in there, then drop the downstairs ring.

 

[Donkmeister]

2 people on another forum cant find the same 60w with everything turned off

+1. Mine hovers about 50W even with the main isolator switched off. It's an Owl, if that makes any difference.

 

[timtheenchanter]

these things seem to be very innacurate at low consumprion levels.

eg, I have one installed in my caravan to monitor usage so we dont trip hook ups.

I turn on one 7W CFL and th monitor claims 40W
turn thre other on, I get 80W

put the fridge on with the lights (which is around 140W) and it only jumps to 150W so below 100W its pretty useless, so it wouldnt suprise me if it claimed 60W for your alarm.

 

[davelx]

these things seem to be very innacurate at low consumprion levels.

eg, I have one installed in my caravan to monitor usage so we dont trip hook ups.

I turn on one 7W CFL and th monitor claims 40W
turn thre other on, I get 80W

put the fridge on with the lights (which is around 140W) and it only jumps to 150W so below 100W its pretty useless, so it wouldnt suprise me if it claimed 60W for your alarm.

If you read the specs in the user manual, it should give the accuracy. The Owl certainly does and it gives no figure for currents < 1A. 10% for 1A-3A and 5% above 3A.

 

[big-all]

the point i was making is there was no flow at all the 60w didn't exist

so when people turn everything off to find what an individual item consumes you get an extra 60w added

thats why you need one off these
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?criteria=power+monitor
to find an individual items consumption or group off items in an extension lead

 

[AndyPRK]

If it's the current/cable clamp type.

What happens when you remove it from the cable? What does it read

 

[LiamPope]

so when people turn everything off to find what an individual item consumes you get an extra 60w added

A better way would be to have a constant base load on the installation that puts the instrument in a range where it has it's best accuracy, then measure the difference made by connecting/disconnecting the individual item you wish to measure the power consumption of.

Or just use an instrument with a more appropriate (or adjustable) range and/or better accuracy.