Shed planning

[DanFraser]

Hi everyone. Been reading here a while now planning a shed build that needs to be sturdy because it's not a fantastic area to be living and it also will be used as a workshop for working on some car bits. That includes an engine being built up in there.

Here's the frame work nicely rendered for you...

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Erm, hope I didn't break any viewers forums with that pic (though to be honest you need to stop using a VGA-spec monitor, it is 2013!).

Here's a description.

Those blocks at the bottom are standard coursing bricks, a lot of them. Reason for these is I rent and cannot do any concrete at all. I thought about slabs but I want those bottom beams clear of the ground.

I think they are sized wrong in the render but then we have seven 2.1m 47x100 main beams with 21 3.6m 47x100 beams. All treated from 'factory'.

The rest of the frame is 47x75, 1.8m tall at the rear, 2.1m at the front.

Double door centrally, with a little access door for a petrol mower that would be boxed in internally as a shelving system. I've had a childhood battered with memories of fighting to get a mower out of a shed.

This is just the frame work, cladding etc are still to be decided upon exactly, but do you guys have any critiques?

 

[big-all]

heeelllooo and welcome DanFraser

diagonal bracing good but not essential if you use 6 or 12mm sheet material[wood based] on the inside face
have you read any threads i have made a substantial contribution to

 

[DanFraser]

The bracing is there because it won't be lined inside when it's built, but it will be eventually, might not though as I'm not too bothered about insulation even with it being a man cave. Cheers for the measurements on that.

I've read your stuff. Damn good but way out of my budget range. Most of this will be built from reclaimed aside from the base.

Should have added the tops of the bricks will be proud from the ground and there will be a skirting built up at the bottom to nearly touch gravel.

 

[big-all]

as a workshop you can hang what you like from 12mm ply on the walls

 

[davemar]

I'm doing a similar thing and currently building a shed from scratch, and have used a CAD package to plan it.

Like you, I'm using 47x75 (actually measure 44x72) beams for the frames. I haven't gone for any diagonal bracing as the cladding should make it rigid. I've already got 3 sides up and it's pretty strong already.

What I did to make it easier to put up was make each wall a panel, so there's a beam at the top and bottom as well. I then screw the panel to the floor from above and bolt the panel to the adjacent panel.

For the base, I didn't use concrete either, but used plastic clip-together bases from Ecobase which provide a solid foundation and allow drainage below. I placed these on some old slabs on a hardcore compacted base.

 

[big-all]

helllooo davemar
you will need some sort off bracing if you dont have sheet material between at least 2 timbers on each wall
as the wood contract and expands if you have any heavy load in any direction other than vertical it will exert force as the wood dries taking up any slack
now this might be a tiny bit or a big bit no way off telling
for example i now have a large shelve unit made from 18mm mdf hanging off the wall above the workmate in the picture that contains around 20kg off large screw cases and other stuff
even though the full area on the other half off the doorway is fully 12mm ply lined the glass door has risen about 6mm on the lock side
without boards it would be far far more

 

[DanFraser]

Well, got round to the pricing up.

First local place got it to £545.88. They are the only ones with online ordering so the others might throw a smaller price in. Gotta consider delivery or van hire in this.

davemar, I'm going for a construction that is cheaper on cost but tries not to sacrifice any sturdiness. By leaving out the bottom piece it saves on cost but the floorboards will carry the load just the same. True, it will be interesting to build it but not difficult.

 

[ntb]

Given you seem to be suggesting it's not the most crime free area, you might want to beef up the door frame somewhat, add metal plate to the timber for dead bolts etc and use plenty of hefty tamper proof hinges.

Is there going to be glazing? If so, plan ahead for security bars.

 

[DanFraser]

Given you seem to be suggesting it's not the most crime free area, you might want to beef up the door frame somewhat, add metal plate to the timber for dead bolts etc and use plenty of hefty tamper proof hinges.

Is there going to be glazing? If so, plan ahead for security bars.

Nah, no windows, yet anyway. Things will be beefed up which is where most of the annoying cost is coming from.