Shower Isolator Switch

[cal_rourke]

Hello,

I have an isolator switch that I turn on and off as required to use the shower. I have replaced the switch once already due to mechanical wear-and-tear (it's a stiff pull). Now the replacement is showing signs of failing.

My question is, does the isolator switch need to be turned on and off for showering or is it only there for when work is to be done inside the shower unit? In other words, is it advisable to leave it on as I would leave a TV on standby?

I am wondering if there are significant safety, power-drain or shower damage issues...

Thanks for any responses.

 

[breezer]

depends on the shower, i would change the switch and leave it on (if it is ok by your shower manufacturer)

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Are you buying a good make of switch?

 

[cal_rourke]

Are you buying a good make of switch?

Just a B&Q £9.99 variety. The current one has lasted just over a year - I would have expected longer. Maybe there are types with a lighter pull and therefore less wear.

 

[plugwash]

buy a decent brand like MK MEM CRABTREE etc if you plan to switch it a lot the "own brand" stuff in the diy sheds seems to be basically the cheapest stuff they can get away with selling

most people do seem to just leave them switched on Therefore B&Q won't get a high return rate if they buy ones which can't stand frequent switching.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Are you buying a good make of switch?

Just a B&Q £9.99 variety

"No" would have sufficed....

 

[cal_rourke]

"No" would have sufficed....

I will keep this in mind for future diy purchases!

Thank you all for your responses - very speedy and helpful.
____________________________
moderator

edited to correct quote

 

[WabbitPoo]

...and if it IS OK to leave it switched on, why have it at all? If you want to work on the shower (which Part P would suggest you shouldnt be doing anyway unless qualified!) then disconnect the shower's dedicated socket. Why DO we have a pull cord?

 

[mapj1]

To isolate the neutral and live, not just the live, which pulling the circuit fuse would achieve. Under certain fault conditions this is not enough (N-E short, and E carrying too much of the neutral return current comes to mind.)

There has to be a means of isolation readily available, should an accident occur, rather like a cooker switch - its not enough to have to rush down stairs in the all-together, open the under-stairs cupbourd and start removing vacuum cleaners, welly boots roller skates etc. just to turn the power off, if smoke is pouring from the unit. It is also possible that the consumer unit may be locked, particularly in shared acomodation.
thats why....

 

[ban-all-sheds]

which Part P would suggest you shouldnt be doing anyway unless qualified

Where does it suggest that?

then disconnect the shower's dedicated socket

You've got your shower plugged into a socket

I'm beginning to see where you're coming from re Part P - you're thinking of yourself....