Shower pressure/flow issue

[stender]

Sorry no idea. I have 2 issues.
Pump wasn’t starting unless turn on cold first. And now pump won’t turn off.
So I want to remove the hot flexi to the pump to see if filter blocked and float.

 

[Madrab]

No you don't need another bung, you only need to cap the vent with say a 22mm stop end (don't forget to remove the stop end once work's finished and the cylinder is to be heated again) if not then you will need to drain the cylinder down to the essex tapping - the pump feed - so you can remove the supply pipe to the pump.

 

[stender]

So I only need to bung the pipe that just hangs over the cold tank and not the one that fills the bottom of the emersion?
How does that work?
I take it I then run the hot on one of the showers to empty the pipe?

 

[Madrab]

No, you still use your bungs to shut off the pipes that feed to the cold side of the pump and the cold feed into the bottom of the HW cylinder as per your diagram but then use a cap to cap off the vent too, the pipe that curves over the top of the cold water cistern. That should shut off the water feeds to the pump as long as everything is sealed. Make sure the bungs are nice and tight into the pipe, don't want them coming loose once your disconnect at the pump.

If you don't seal the vent pipe air can still get into your cylinder so you then need to drain the cylinder down to the level of the essex flange that runs from the middle of the cylinder to the pump. You can run the shower or any pipe that the pump feeds to drain the cylinder down to that pipe, if it will flow, it may not as there will be no positive pressure in the cylinder once the feed to the cylinder is bunged. If it doesn't you could use the drain which should be at the bottom of the cylinder.

While you at all this, get 2 full bore lever valves and fit them to the cold feeds to the cylinder and pump so you can avoid all of this the next time you need to service the pump.

 

[stender]

Thanks. Problem is I have nothing to cap the pipe. I bought a pack of 2 bungs thinking I only had to block the hot into emersion and cold into pump. What type of cap do I need as I’ll have to try and buy one.
I did buy a pack of tap washers to fix the cut off valves as I saw that was the fix on you tube.

I was hoping to do it this weekend so may have to get a pro in now. Any ideas what someone would charge to come and bung the tank and remove the flexi to check for blockage and stuck switch?

It’s a pain with the pump being stuck on as I have to stand by the switch plug to turn on off when we need a shower so the pump isn’t left running with no shower on. That is more urgent than the hot issue

 

[Madrab]

If you have the 2 bungs then no reason, if your comfortable with it, to bung up the cistern feeds and drain it down to the pump feed level. You just have to remember that you are sitting with up to 50 gal of water above you and you need to be sure that it is all nice a sealed before you start loosening things off, if the isolation valves aren't working. I would also be tempted to tie up the ball valve in the cold water cistern in the attic and drain the cistern down to just above the highest feed, just in case.
Which cut off valves are you taking about, the red handled ones on the supply pipes? If so then they don't use washers, they are what's called gate valves and they use a brass gate that lowers down into the valve and stops the flow and can't really be serviced, hence the suggestion to replace them with full bore lever vales
The pump sticking on is a newish issue? That could be down to either a flow switch stuck on or a problem with the pump electronics but either way the pump needs to be checked serviced.

 

[stender]

I’m not confident hence all the questions also reading other posts such as below doesn’t help.
Just don't bung the vent as well, wouldn't want an imploded cylinder

There’s a gap in the market for a you tube video.

I may have to pay a pro to come out and swap the gate valves for leavers then I can check the pump. I may need a new pump so will save in long run.

I have also noticed there is a gate valve on the pipe into the bottom of emersion but no way to test that.

 

[stender]

Anyone know if lever valves come with olives? And how to remove the old? And do I ptfe the new valves

 

[terryplumb]

Lever valves with compression fittings ,come with olives . To remove the existing olive ,bring the nut to touch the olive ,and with a spanner ( such as an adjustable spanner) tap the spanner up the pipe against the nut.
No need for PTFE on a compression fitting.

 

[stender]

I paid a pro who charged me £114 to change 2 gate valves. He didnt bung and didnt change the olives. He just undid the pipe stuck his thumb over the pipe and shove the new valve on and used existing nuts.
Tomorrow ill attempt to check the pump for blockage.

 

[Madrab]

He was lucky and dodged a bullet there, half the time the nut threads or internal depth stops can be different. Did he replace them for lever valves?

 

[stender]

He did but I now seem to have a bit of a leak on the essex flange which moved a bit when he was switching the valves. lot off crust around it which looks like digestive biscuit. Also doesnt help me getting the hot flexi to the pump off as there is no wiggle room. I need to unscrew the pipe out the bottom of the hot valve but now nervous because the Essex moves. Going to have to buy some fernox before I attempt anything.