Shower pressure/flow issue

You do know that the white plastics slot has to be one quarter turn ,so slot is across the pipe ,not in line with it ,to be fully off ? That's very odd that all 4 don't work ??
And what type of isolation valves are on the fixed Pipework ,gate valves by any chance ( big round red handles )?
 
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Yes. I had a pro in to swap my shower. He turned one off and it didnt work. When he turned it back there was a small drip. He said plumbers dont trust them so he bunged the tank. That was the Hot in. I need to stop the hot and cold in so I can remove the bottom of the flexes to check the filters and look at the float. Same pro wouldn't reply to my texts when I asked about the pressure issue. Was happy to take £125 to swap two hoses on a shower but not to investigate this issue

The valves are red wheel type yes. I shut both the hot and cold and water still flowed. I assume the washers have gone.
 
Gate valves do not have washers ,they are prone to not fully close ,and can not fully open in certain instances ,which may well contribute to your poor flow. Bung tank outlets ,and replace them with good quality FULL BORE lever operated isolation valves.
You appear to have a number of issues.
1. Hot water temperature from cylinder.
What do you use to heat the water ,boiler or immersion heater ?
2. Pump continues to run after shower valve closed down. A problem within the pump.
3. Pump will not trigger ,on ONE shower ,but second shower does trigger pump.
That's a lack of flow of hot water to the shower that doesn't trigger the pump.
4. Dodgy gate valves that need replacing.
 
I watched a few videos for valves that dont shut off and they showed that it was due to rubber washer having worn. They undid the outer nut (cant recall name and there is a washer with screw in middle.

1. Immersion.
2. Only started today. not had that issue before.
3. Cold triggers the pump, hot doesnt. But once triggered on cold I can turn and get some warm (enough for a shower). that is the worry if it is a pipe blockage I cant do anything about that.I cant even rerun pipework without ripping up a new carpet, floorboards and tiling. I cant run via loft either as I cant access loft where the shower is. its an extension.Its a white flexi pipe that is run probably 30ft through 2 rooms. It worked ok when we moved in 18months ago. Happened a few months ago.
4. Yes but least of my worries if a bung works.
 
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If water isn't hot enough from cylinder ,check the thermostat setting on the immersion element . And of course you need to have it switched on long enough ,how long do you have it on for?
The shower that does not trigger the pump ,remove it and check the filter is clean. Check the non return valve in the hot inlet is not sticking . And then with shower valve removed from wall ,turn on hot water isolator ( pump electrically off) and ensure good flow of hot water is actually getting to the shower valve.
 
Not so concerned with the temp tbh.
Its a new shower and a new filter was added at the time but the issue started with the old shower.
The pump is stuck on now so in the morning i'll turn on the shower then the pump and have a shower. I can then bung the tank and check the pump filter and float. If that is ok I'll then take the shower off and see if it flows ok.
No idea what I can do if the flow minus the pump is no good. I dont fancy demolishing the house to run new pipe work.
Will let you know how i get on. Thanks for help. Appreciated.
 
So I bought some bungs. Thought id try the small white valves on the pump flexi first thinking I might be able to then just remove the bottom of the flexi and check the filter and float switch. Couldn't do that as there is no slack to pull it off (push fit top and bottom. I then found it started dripping from the screw and the red ring on the push fit.
So it seems like I need to bung the tank and then remove the top of the pump flexi first then bottom. Concern is I still dont have enough give and it leaks when i put it back. Would be happier if it was a screw fit.

Can I confirm I only need to bung the 2 pipes in the image? 1 going to cold inlet of pump and the other to the base of the emersion? The bungs show blocking the cold and the one that is above the tank but I assume that is for heating?
I then just run the showers until the tank empties.

bung.jpg
 
Is the pump in your drawing showing the shower pump? That can't be right, that isn't the way any shower pump would be piped. The cold feed from the cistern in the attic would go to the pump and the outlet from the pump would run to the cold water distribution pipework.

If it was a dual pump then the hot feed from the cylinder outlet would also feed into the pump and then out to the hot water distribution pipework.

Your positioning of the bungs would be correct, I just cant see the rest of the pipework being like that.
 
I didnt draw the outlets only the inbound to the pump.
The outputs split to 2 showers (original photo shows all) Issue is with the shower on white flexi pipe
 
Ah ok, apologies, didn't correlate that to the original.

Yes those bung position are fine, you'll also need to cap the HW expansion pipe over the cistern.
 
oh i only have 2 bungs. what does the expansion do?
i thought if theres no water going in to the emersion and I turn the taps on to empty it, then it wont refill?
 
If you stop the flow into the cylinder, leave the vent open then the water in the cylinder will just stay where it is unless you drain it from the lowest point at the cylinder (should be at the cold feed to the cylinder) and then gravity will help with that.

If you bung the cold feed to the cylinder and then seal the vent then the vacuum should hold the water in the cylinder, worst case is you drain down to the level of the feed from the cylinder to the pump.
 
Where on the hot water cylinder is the feed to the pump ? Surely it's not half way down the side of the cylinder as in your diagram ? Can you show a pic?
 
4397DFD2-C215-400F-B0F7-2CCB1723F3C9.jpeg
So I definitely need 3 bungs? Just paid £13 for 2! I don’t need to take the cold flexi off if the issue is a blocked hot filter and float.

The hot out to the pump is near the top of the cylinder.
 
If you are changing the gate valve on the hot supply from cylinder to pump ,you could drain ( partially ) the cylinder to the pumps outlet ,by running the shower and pump. There would still be a small amount of water in the pipes ,but you could control that with the gate valve.
 

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